Rebecca Shedd – Author

The Writer’s Guide to 1820s Men’s Fashion

Posted on June 11, 2021     7 Comments

The Romantic Movement impacted men’s fashion just as it did for women. Describing this decade, fashion historian Jane Ashelford wrote: “The Romantic movement stressed the creative power of the ‘shaping spirit of Imagination’ and was motivated by a desire to escape from the chilly neo-classicalism of the turn of the century and the harsh realities of the Industrial Revolution. It manifested itself in dress by an enthusiasm for extrovert personal display and theatrical fashions which, in the 1820s and early 1830s, led to men wearing their clothes with a swaggering bravado and panache.”

For an overview of fashion for the entire 19^th century, please read my Writer’s Guide to 19^th Century Fashion.

Silhouette

The fashionable male silhouette mirrored that of the ladies with wide sleeves and chest, a cinched in waist, volume at the tops of the trousers, and flaring coattails. [1] Collars on coats, waistcoats, and shirts were tall to frame the face. Padding was used to achieve the fashionable silhouette, most commonly in coats and stockings to create a shapely calf. [2] The styles of the decade were roundly mocked in the press and the satirical cartoons of the day. [3]

Underwear

The base layer was a cotton or linen shirt with a standing collar. Daytime shirts had pleats or tucks on the front while those worn for evening had frills. [4]

Male corsets became increasingly common during this decade and were pretty much required to achieve the severely nipped in waist that was in vogue. [5] However, they were usually referred to as “girdles,” “belts,” or “vests” to distinguish them from female corsets and stays. They were made in several styles ranging from a fully boned corset to waistcoats with baleen boning that laced in the back. Male corsets had been in use since the late 18^th century and become common among military officers.

The Suit

The style of suit was determined by the formality of the occasion and the time of day.

There were three main types of coats: the dress coat, the morning coat, and the frock coat. The dress coat was worn for formal occasions, both daytime and evening. It was cut straight across at the waist with tails in the back. The morning coat was a variation of the dress coat with front panels that gently curved to the back. The frock coat from the previous decade was a fashionable informal choice. All coats were usually made in dark colors, often wool, and were commonly single breasted. [6]

Waistcoats were usually a solid color, with white or black being worn for evening. Most had either a standing collar or a rolled shawl collar. [7] It was trendy to wear more than one in keeping with the fashionable large-chested silhouette. [8]

Trousers were becoming the standard daytime fashion, with pantaloons being commonly worn for evening events, paired with a black dress coat. [9] Breeches were only worn for evening, at court, or out hunting and paired with tall boots. [10] Trousers were still narrow but had widened a bit from the previous decade. They reached to the top of the shoe and were often secured with an in-step strap. [11] They closed with a fall front although the fly front appeared during this decade but it did not become widespread until the 1840’s. Voluminous cossacks remained in fashion from the previous decade. Lighter colors were worn for day and darker for evening.

Hairstyles & Headwear

Short curly hair with sideburns was fashionable.

The silk top hat was king and came in several colors. [12] During this decade, the style was for the crown to curve outward from the brim.

Footwear

Besides the boots which remained fashionable from the previous decade, men wore low narrow shoes. The introduction of rubber to Europe and America paved the way for the invention of galoshes.

Accessories

By far, the most important accessory for the well-dressed gentleman was his immaculately tied cravat. It was a large square of silk or muslin knotted in a variety of bows and knots. [13] The stock, which was borrowed from military uniforms, was also worn. It was a stiff band covered in velvet or satin that fastened at the back of the neck. Black and white were the standard colors, especially for formal affairs, but patterns were worn for casual events. [14]

Watches on fobs tucked in a specially made watch pocket were still the standard. [15] Gloves were worn for daytime and evening.

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I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.

If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here. https://rebeccashedd.com/contact-me/

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Copyright © 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.

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[1] Foster, Vanda. A Visual History of Costume: The Nineteenth Century. London: BT Batsford, 1984 p. 16.
Laver, James. Costume and Fashion: A Concise History, 5th ed. London: Thames & Hudson, Ltd, 2012 p. 162.
[2] Byrde, Penelope. Nineteenth Century Fashion. London: Batsford, 1992 p. 96.
Bruna, Denis, ed. Fashioning the Body: An Intimate History of the Silhouette. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2015 p. 202-203.
[3] Laver, James. Costume and Fashion: A Concise History, 5th ed. London: Thames & Hudson, Ltd, 2012 p. 162.
Ashelford, Jane. The Art of Dress: Clothes and Society, 1500-1914. London: National Trust, 1996 p. 191.
[4] Byrde, Penelope. Nineteenth Century Fashion. London: Batsford, 1992 p. 94.
[5] Bruna, Denis, ed. Fashioning the Body: An Intimate History of the Silhouette. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2015 p. 199-204.
Tortora, Phyllis G. and Keith Eubank. Survey of Historic Costume, 5th ed. New York: Fairchild Books, 2010 p. 340.
[6] Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Men’s Clothes: 1600-1900. New York and London: Routledge, Taylor and Francis Group, 2015 p. 117.
[7] Tortora, Phyllis G. and Keith Eubank. Survey of Historic Costume, 5th ed. New York: Fairchild Books, 2010 p. 342.
[8] Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Men’s Clothes: 1600-1900. New York and London: Routledge, Taylor and Francis Group, 2015 p. 115.
[9] Byrde, Penelope. Nineteenth Century Fashion. London: Batsford, 1992 p. 91-97.
[10] Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Men’s Clothes: 1600-1900. New York and London: Routledge, Taylor and Francis Group, 2015 p. 116.
Tortora, Phyllis G. and Keith Eubank. Survey of Historic Costume, 5th ed. New York: Fairchild Books, 2010 p. 341-342.
[11] B. Payne, "Men's Wear in the Nineteenth Century", History of Costume: From the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century (1965).
[12] Ginsburg, Madeliene. The Hat: Trends and Traditions. London: Studio Editions, 1990 p. 76, 85.
[13] Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Men’s Clothes: 1600-1900. New York and London: Routledge, Taylor and Francis Group, 2015 p.119.
Tortora, Phyllis G. and Keith Eubank. Survey of Historic Costume, 5th ed. New York: Fairchild Books, 2010 p. 341.
[14] Byrde, Penelope. Nineteenth Century Fashion. London: Batsford, 1992 p. 94.
[15] Ashelford, Jane. The Art of Dress: Clothes and Society, 1500-1914. London: National Trust, 1996 p. 186.
Cumming, Valerie ed., The Dictionary of Fashion History. New York: Berg, 2010 p. 83.

The Writer’s Guide to 1810s Men’s Fashion

Posted on May 28, 2021     7 Comments

While women’s Victorian fashions changed wildly between the decades, men’s styles had a more measured and lengthy progression. Each decade saw some changes from the previous one. It is easy to look at men’s fashions from this decade and see the influence they had on the modern suit.

A splendid example of this clothing in action is Zack Pinsent. I recommend looking him up on YouTube.

For an overview of fashion for the entire 19^th century, please read my Writer’s Guide to 19^th Century Fashion. Over the next couple of weeks I will look  into each decade with greater depth.

Influences

Beau Brummel still had an outsized influence on men’s fashions during this period, but his social standing had taken a big hit with his falling out with the Prince Regent in 1811. Despite the loss of his patron and the attending royal favor, he remained in society and stayed relevant, an unusual achievement. [1] He ended up racking up enormous debts trying to keep up with his aristocratic friends. In 1816, he fled to France, leaving behind a debt of thousands of pounds. He was committed to a debtor’s prison in 1835 and died broke and insane from syphilis in 1840 in Caen.

Underwear

A white shirt with a ruffled or pleated front and a standing collar was still the norm. [2] Some men discretely wore male corsets to achieve the svelte fashionable figure.

The Suit

The suit continued to be the staple of menswear. The silhouette changing slightly after 1811 with the waist dropping and padding added to the shoulders. [3] Impeccable fit was still of utmost importance. Color and embellishment continued to retreat. The primary form of adornment was that inspired by the military fashions of the day. [4] The ditto suit or a three-piece suit with all elements made of the same fabric was unusual. [5]

The dress coat and the riding coat continued to be the two dominate styles. Toward the end of the decade, darts were added to the riding coat to achieve a smoother fit and eliminate the unsightly crease at the waist. [6] Around 1815, the frock coat was introduced and was worn for informal daytime affairs. It had knee-length tails and a fitted waist, which eventually incorporated a waist seam. The frock coat likely evolved from the greatcoat or military uniforms and became the staple of the respectable Victorian gentleman’s wardrobe. [7]

Waistcoats continued to be cut straight across at the waist and were single or double breasted.

The 1810s was an overlap period, during which both breeches and pantaloons were worn. Breeches were almost unchanged from the 18^th century. They were snug with a fall-front and closed below the knee with buttons and buckles, and were worn for evening events. Pantaloons were longer, usually extending to the calf or ankle. [8] They were cut on the fabric’s bias, providing some stretch that helped to achieve a figure-hugging fit. Trousers also existed and were growing in popularity. They differed from pantaloons in their fit since they were looser around the calf. Starting shorter, by 1817, trousers reached the shoe. The instep strap, used to keep a tight line, is attributed to Beau Brummell. [9] During the middle of the decade, a style of trousers known as “Cossacks” saw a brief popularity. They were inspired by the visit to London of the Russian Czar and his troops in 1814. “Cossacks” were voluminous and pleated into the waistband. [10]

Hairstyles and Headwear

The hairstyles of the previous decade continued to be popular as well as the top hat, which was usually made of beaver felt. [10] The two-sided chapeau-bras was a stylish choice for evening. [11]

Accessories

The cravat continued to be a gentleman’s most important accessory. [12] This obsession was satirized in the publications of the day.

Watches on a fob continued to be stylish.

Shoes

Several styles of boots were immensely popular and show the influence that military uniforms had on civilian fashion. Hessian boots with tassels and heart-shaped tops were a favorite style, with the pantaloons tucked into them. They also showed off a man’s shapely calves. [13]

However, low shoes were a requirement for evening.

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I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.

If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox, every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.

Let’s get writing!

Copyright © 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.

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[1] Campbell, Kathleen (1948). Beau Brummell. London: Hammond.
[2] Tortora, Phyllis G. and Keith Eubank. Survey of Historic Costume, 5th ed. New York: Fairchild Books, 2010 page 319.
le Bourhis, Katell, ed. The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire 1789-1815. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1989 page 112.
[3] le Bourhis, Katell, ed. The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire 1789-1815. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1989 page 112.
[4] le Bourhis, Katell, ed. The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire 1789-1815. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1989 page 112, 117.
[5] Tortora, Phyllis G. and Keith Eubank. Survey of Historic Costume, 5th ed. New York: Fairchild Books, 2010 page 319.
[6] Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Men’s Clothes: 1600-1900. New York and London: Routledge, Taylor and Francis Group, 2015 page 113.
[14] Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Men’s Clothes: 1600-1900. New York and London: Routledge, Taylor and Francis Group, 2015 page 114-115.
Byrde, Penelope. Nineteenth Century Fashion. London: Batsford, 1992 page 92-93.
Davidson, Hilary. Dress in the Age of Jane Austen: Regency Fashion. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2019 page 28.
[7] Byrde, Penelope. Nineteenth Century Fashion. London: Batsford, 1992 page 93.
Johnston, Lucy, Marion Kite, Helen Persson, Richard Davis, and Leonie Davis. Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail. London: V&A Publications, 2005 page 14.
[8] Ashelford, Jane. The Art of Dress: Clothes and Society, 1500-1914. London: National Trust, 1996 page 186.
Byrde, Penelope. Nineteenth Century Fashion. London: Batsford, 1992 page 93-94.
[9] Davidson, Hilary. Dress in the Age of Jane Austen: Regency Fashion. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2019 page 232.
Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Men’s Clothes: 1600-1900. New York and London: Routledge, Taylor and Francis Group, 2015 page 116.
[10] Ginsburg, Madeliene. The Hat: Trends and Traditions. London: Studio Editions, 1990 page 85.
le Bourhis, Katell, ed. The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire 1789-1815. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1989 page 112-113.
[11] Davidson, Hilary. Dress in the Age of Jane Austen: Regency Fashion. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2019 page 200, 226.
[12] Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Men’s Clothes: 1600-1900. New York and London: Routledge, Taylor and Francis Group, 2015 page 119.
[13] Ashelford, Jane. The Art of Dress: Clothes and Society, 1500-1914. London: National Trust, 1996 page 186.
Johnston, Lucy, Marion Kite, Helen Persson, Richard Davis, and Leonie Davis. Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail. London: V&A Publications, 2005 page 14.

The Writer’s Guide to 1810’s Women’s Fashion

Posted on May 21, 2021     4 Comments

The 1810’s spanned the Empire era, which ended with the fall of Napoleon’s First French Empire in 1815, and the beginning of the Regency era, which started in 1811 with the regency of Britain’s Prince George. While the high-waisted classically inspired styles of the previous decade continued, a shift in focus to the Romantic Movement occurred and it became popular in incorporate influences from the Middle Ages and Renaissance. This decade also saw elements from India, Egypt, China, and other parts of the world impacting European fashion and Western styles spreading around the globe.

This period is popular among writers and producers of TV shows and movies. The new hit Netflix series, “Bridgerton,” is set in 1813. There have also been many, many adaptions of Jane Austen’s novels that were published in this period such as Sense and Sensibility (1811), Pride and Prejudice (1813), Mansfield Park (1814), and Emma (1815). Of course, each of these productions have varying levels of accuracy in their costuming.

Influences

The woman at the leading edge of fashion was Marie-Josèphe Rose Tascher de La Pagerie, better known as Empress Joséphine Bonaparte. She married Napoleon Bonaparte in 1796 and was crowned empress of France in 1804. She adored fine muslins and Kashmiri shawls, two staples of the decade’s look. Josephine supported the rebuilding of the French fashion industry after it was devasted by the Revolution. [1] Although her husband limited the importation of British muslin and Indian cashmere, she still found ways to acquire them. [2] She also had a voracious hunger for clothes. An 1809 inventory of her wardrobe included 49 court dresses, 666 winter dresses, 230 summer dresses, 60 cashmere shawls, and 1,132 pairs of gloves. [3]

This is what biographer Andrea Stuart had to say of her: “She was the wife of the world’s most powerful man, and the most visible female figure of her era. Her every action and nuance of appearance were followed eagerly by newspapers and journals in France and abroad. She was the high priestess of style, and fashion-conscious women the world over idolized her. They pored over fashion journals like le Journal des Dames et de la Mode…in order to see what Josephine was wearing, and attempted to copy her style. Joséphine reinforced Paris’s position as fashion capital of the world, which in turn boosted French industry.”

Undergarments

A linen or cotton shift or chemise continued to be worn.

Over that, was a pair of stays or a corset to support the bust. The term stays referred to the heavily boned support garment that originated in the 18^th century while a corset had lighter or minimal boning. Over time, the terms became interchangeable, stays faded from use, and corsets became more heavily structured and boned. [4] Both short and long stays existed during this period. The short ones were used to support and shape the breasts, while the long did that as well as slimming the figure. [5]

Petticoats were worn under the skirts for support, modesty, and warmth.

Women would also wear a bustle pad, a crescent-shaped roll tied around the torso. Since the waistlines were so high, it rested just below the shoulder blades, creating a round-backed look known as a “Grecian bend.” [6]

Dresses

Gowns continued the high-waisted columnar look that began in the previous decade. However, the skirts became more angular with the use of gores, with the fullness gathered at the back. [7] The fall-front bodice disappeared in favor of back closures. A smoother fit was achieved by cutting the fabric on the bias and using darts. [8] The sleeves could be either short or long and were set further forward. Sleeves became fuller and were sometimes fashioned into puffs. Necklines could be square or V-shaped. [9] Cleavage was hidden during the day by a chemisette but was on full display for evening. [10] Some evening bodices were as short as two and a half inches (6.35 cm)!

White was still a stylish color, but brighter shades and patterns were increasingly popular. [11] Stiffer silks and cottons began replacing the gauzy muslins. Light transparent netting became incredibly trendy and more affordable after the invention of the bobbin-net machine by John Heathcoat in 1808. [12] It was used heavily in evening dresses where it was embroidered or otherwise decorated and worn over a silk slip. Pintucks and flounces on skirts also became incredibly popular as well as puffs and rouleaux, or stuffed rolls of fabric.

Overall, the neo-classical look was supplanted by Romanticism, which drew influence from the idealized past, especially the Middle Ages. Fashions from the decade have an ethereal quality about them or evoked elements from the past such as panes and puffs that recall the slashing of the Renaissance. [13]

Outerwear

The most common outer garments included the long redingote and the short spencer jacket. [14] The pelisse-robe, a type of coat dress, was developed by 1817. [15] These garments were heavily influenced by the military uniform styles of the day and made great use of braid, tassels, frogs, cords, and Brandenburg buttons. [16]

Shawls were an essential part of the look with the most sought after being Kashmiri shawls from India. Since they were so expensive, many imitations sprang up. One of the most noteworthy was from Paisley, Scotland, which gave its name to the pattern. [17]

Hairstyles and Headwear

“Spaniel curls,” which hung over both ears remained popular with the rest of the hair done up in curls in the back. [18] The cropped hairstyles of the previous decade were still seen at the beginning of the 1810’s. [19]

A wide variety of hats, bonnets, caps, and other headwear were worn. Foreign styles such as the turban reflected the influence of Napoleon’s overseas campaigns. [20] Poke bonnets shielded the face from the sun. Tall hats inspired by the shakos worn by Hussars were also popular. [21] Older women would often wear day caps indoors. [22]

Footwear

The low slipper and white stockings of the previous decade were still the standard for footwear.

Accessories

Accessories included fur muffs and reticules. Fans also were a popular item.

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I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.

If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.

Let’s get writing!

Copyright © 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.

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[1] Fukai, Akiko, ed. The Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute: Fashion, A History from the 18th Century to the 20th Century. Kyoto: Taschen, 2013 page 125.
[2] Jensen, Heather Belnap. “Parures, Pashminas, and Portraiture, or, How Joséphine Bonaparte Fashioned the Napoleonic Empire.” in Fashion in European Art: Dress and Identity, Politics and the Body, 1775– 1925. Edited by Justine De Young, 36-59. London/New York: I.B.Tauris, 2017. Bloomsbury Fashion Central via The New York Public Library.
Davidson, Hilary. Dress in the Age of Jane Austen: Regency Fashion. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2019 page 272.
[3] Jensen, Heather Belnap. “Parures, Pashminas, and Portraiture, or, How Joséphine Bonaparte Fashioned the Napoleonic Empire.” in Fashion in European Art: Dress and Identity, Politics and the Body, 1775– 1925.
Tortora, Phyllis G. and Keith Eubank. Survey of Historic Costume, 5th ed. New York: Fairchild Books, 2010 page 311.
[4] Davidson, Hilary. Dress in the Age of Jane Austen: Regency Fashion. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2019 page 64.
[5] Foster, Vanda. A Visual History of Costume: The Nineteenth Century. London: BT Batsford, 1984 page 31.
[6] Cunnington, C. Willett. English Women’s Clothing in the Nineteenth Century: A Comprehensive Guide with 1,117 Illustrations. Mineola, NY: Dover Publications, 1990 page 32-33.
Davidson, Hilary. Dress in the Age of Jane Austen: Regency Fashion. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2019 page 26, 66. Tortora, Phyllis G. and Keith Eubank. Survey of Historic Costume, 5th ed. New York: Fairchild Books, 2010 page 315.
[7] Cunnington, C. Willett. English Women’s Clothing in the Nineteenth Century: A Comprehensive Guide with 1,117 Illustrations. Mineola, NY: Dover Publications, 1990 page 26.
Johnston, Lucy, Marion Kite, Helen Persson, Richard Davis, and Leonie Davis. Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail. London: V&A Publications, 2005 page 74, 46.
Byrde, Penelope. Nineteenth Century Fashion. London: Batsford, 1992 page 30, 35.
[8] Davidson, Hilary. Dress in the Age of Jane Austen: Regency Fashion. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2019 page 26.
[9] le Bourhis, Katell, ed. The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire 1789-1815. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1989 page 94, 233.
[10] Ashelford, Jane. The Art of Dress: Clothes and Society, 1500-1914. London: National Trust, 1996 page 180.
[11] Byrde, Penelope. Nineteenth Century Fashion. London: Batsford, 1992 page 36.
Foster, Vanda. A Visual History of Costume: The Nineteenth Century. London: BT Batsford, 1984 page 36.
[12] Johnston, Lucy, Marion Kite, Helen Persson, Richard Davis, and Leonie Davis. Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail. London: V&A Publications, 2005 page 146. le Bourhis, Katell, ed. The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire 1789-1815. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1989 page 100.
[13] Johnston, Lucy, Marion Kite, Helen Persson, Richard Davis, and Leonie Davis. Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail. London: V&A Publications, 2005 page 46.
Davidson, Hilary. Dress in the Age of Jane Austen: Regency Fashion. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2019 page 37-38.
Cunnington, C. Willett. English Women’s Clothing in the Nineteenth Century: A Comprehensive Guide with 1,117 Illustrations. Mineola, NY: Dover Publications, 1990 page 29.
le Bourhis, Katell, ed. The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire 1789-1815. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1989 page 100.
[14] Cunnington, C. Willett. English Women’s Clothing in the Nineteenth Century: A Comprehensive Guide with 1,117 Illustrations. Mineola, NY: Dover Publications, 1990 page 35-38. le Bourhis, Katell, ed. The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire 1789-1815. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1989 page 98.
[15] Byrde, Penelope. Nineteenth Century Fashion. London: Batsford, 1992 page 27.
[16] Fukai, Akiko, ed. The Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute: Fashion, A History from the 18th Century to the 20th Century. Kyoto: Taschen, 2013 page 148-151. 
Byrde, Penelope. Nineteenth Century Fashion. London: Batsford, 1992 page 30.
Davidson, Hilary. Dress in the Age of Jane Austen: Regency Fashion. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2019 page 233.
[17] Laver, James. Costume and Fashion: A Concise History, 5th ed. London: Thames & Hudson, Ltd, 2012 page 155.
Davidson, Hilary. Dress in the Age of Jane Austen: Regency Fashion. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2019 page 273.
Ashelford, Jane. The Art of Dress: Clothes and Society, 1500-1914. London: National Trust, 1996 page 179.
[18] Foster, Vanda. A Visual History of Costume: The Nineteenth Century. London: BT Batsford, 1984 page 32.
[19] le Bourhis, Katell, ed. The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire 1789-1815. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1989 page 103.
Tortora, Phyllis G. and Keith Eubank. Survey of Historic Costume, 5th ed. New York: Fairchild Books, 2010 page 317.
[20] le Bourhis, Katell, ed. The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire 1789-1815. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1989 page 108.
Laver, James. Costume and Fashion: A Concise History, 5th ed. London: Thames & Hudson, Ltd, 2012 page 156.
[21] Ginsburg, Madeliene. The Hat: Trends and Traditions. London: Studio Editions, 1990 page 72-73.
[22] Cunnington, C. Willett. English Women’s Clothing in the Nineteenth Century: A Comprehensive Guide with 1,117 Illustrations. Mineola, NY: Dover Publications, 1990 page 53.

The Writer’s Guide to 1800-1810 Women’s Fashion

Posted on May 7, 2021     35 Comments

The first decade of the 19^th century is known as the Empire period, named after Napoleon’s First French Empire. It is also sometimes referred to as the Napoleonic era. Women’s clothing of this period is often called Jane Austen dress, since many of the author’s books were written and set during this decade.

For an overview of fashion for the entire 19^th century, please read my Writer’s Guide to 19^th Century Fashion. Over the next couple of weeks I will be looking into each decade with greater depth.

Influences

As I mentioned in my blogs about the last decade of the 18^th century, the French Revolution had a large impact on fashion and the stylish silhouette. The wide-hipped, tightly laced trends of the French court quickly disappeared in its aftermath in favor of a more natural figure. The new fashions reflected the desire for freedom and personal expression.

There was also increased interest in the classical Greek and Roman styles, leading to a revival not only in clothing but architecture, interior design, and the arts. This was due in large part to the discovery and excavation of Pompeii and Herculaneum. The styles of the ancient democracies fit in well with the values of the revolution and Napoleon’s empire. They were also championed by his wife, Josephine. [1] The performances of Emma Hamilton, which pulled heavily from classical imagery, also increased the popularity of the style. [2]

Underwear

Just as for centuries, the base layer for all classes of women was the chemise or shift. However, cotton was becoming increasingly more common, and linen was falling out of favor. The chemise had a low neckline and tight short sleeves to accommodate the styles of the day. It was always white, which helped to withstand rough laundering practices.

Stays were worn over the chemise, but they became shorter than those from the previous century, usually only extending a short distance below the bust. In fact, they look a lot like a laced-up modern sports bra. [3]

A petticoat was worn over the chemise. Since most of the dresses of this period were made of shear fabric, a petticoat was essential for modesty. They could be decorated with pintucks, lace, or ruffles.

Drawers were worn by few women but were gaining in popularity. They often had a split crotch for convenience visiting the bathroom.

Stockings were made of silk or cotton and secured by garters as they were in the previous century. They were often white or nude colored. [4]

Gowns

Dresses had a slim silhouette and drew heavily on classical Greek and Roman imagery. White was a common color since most ancient statues were white marble, having lost their coat of paint over the centuries. Other pastel colors were also popular and recommended for young ladies with jewel tones suggested for mature women. Gone were the wide skirt supports of the previous centuries. The change was so dramatic that it was heavily satirized in the publications of the day.

Lightweight fabrics that draped well such as muslin were used and were sometimes so flimsy to the point of being shear. It was essential to wear a petticoat for modesty. The fullness of the fabric was usually gathered at the back of the waistline, allowing the front to be smooth. The sleeves could be short, like a cap sleeves, or long, extending to the wrists.

Different classifications of dress appeared during this period, signaling a measured returned to formality after the expulsion of everything formal during the revolutions at the end of the previous century. Morning dress was casual at-home wear. Half dress for casual outings or meeting with guests. For both, it was recommended that the dress be long-sleeved and high-necked. Full dress was for formal occasions and evening dress for nighttime events, with plunging necklines and short sleeves being appropriate. [5] Other nuances appeared such as dinner dress, walking dress, etc., heralding the strict requirements of clothing based on occasion and time of day that the Victorian era is known for.

The styles of Spain began to deviate from the rest of Europe and North America. Black became a popular color again just as it was in the 16^th century. Lace veils and large combs in the hair completed the look.

Outerwear

The shawl was an essential element as well as being needed for warmth. Patterns were fashionable with the Indian shawl being favored. [6] Variations of the shawl, including mantels and capes, were also popular.

Various styles of coats such as the redingote, and short jackets called spencers were in vogue. [7]

Gloves were worn when outside the house and only removed for dinning.

Accessories

Due to the slim shear styles of the day, the separate pockets worn during the previous century were abandoned. Instead, small purses or reticules were used to carry items. They usually hung from the wrist.

Fans were carried for cooling and over this period, an entire language made up of fan movements and placement was developed. [8]

Parasols were used outdoors to protect a lady’s pale skin.

Hairstyles and Headwear

Hairstyles were also influenced by ancient Greece and Rome, with a style known as a Psyche knot being popular. Daring women chopped their hair short and wore it “à la Titus”, a layered look with some pieces hanging down.

Bonnets were commonly worn outdoors although adventurous ladies began forgoing them in public. A variety of other headwear was popular including turbans and hats inspired by Asia and China. Conservative married women continued to wear linen caps.

Footwear

Flat slippers made of fabric or leather were the most common. High heels had gone out of fashion. When venturing out on the muddy streets, tall pattens were worn to raise a lady’s slippers up out of the muck.

Court Dress

Although the French court of Louis had fallen, the English court remained. Just as in the previous century, the styles of court were decidedly old-fashioned and harkened back to the 18^th century. Skirt supports were still worn under court dresses. During this period, the English court tried to combine the wide-hipped styles of the late 18^th century with the high-waisted trend. The result was rather absurd and probably not flattering on anyone.

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I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.

If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.

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Copyright © 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.

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[1] https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1800-1809/
[2] Hornsby, Clare (2000). "7". The Impact of Italy: The Grand Tour and Beyond. The British School at Rome. pp. 123–146.
[3] "Stays | V&A Search the Collections". V and A Collections. 2021-01-12. Retrieved 2021-01-12.
[4] "The Costume Book, Nesfield, Cookson. 1935:New York.
[5] "Mirror of Graces; or the English Lady's Costume". p. 95. Retrieved 4 July 2009.
[6] Payne 1965, p. 447–449
[7] Payne 1965, p. 447–449
[8] Cheltenham Art Gallery & Museum

The Writer’s Guide to 19th Century Fashion

Posted on April 30, 2021     39 Comments

The 19^th century saw fundamental changes to society and technology as well as fashion. In previous centuries, the fashions of Europe only impacted that continent and perhaps their few colonies. But with the advent of better means of travel and communication, the styles of Europe spread around the world. In several ways, 19^th century Western trends still impact us now.

Today I will be introducing the basics of 19^th century fashion and will be diving deeper over the coming weeks.

Once the world returns to normal, I highly encourage you to attend a Victorian or American Civil War reenactment event near you. Most of the participants have extensive knowledge of the clothing of the period and are often happy to share it.

A Changing World

There were several major upheavals that impacted fashion in the 19^th century.

Probably one of the biggest was the Industrial Revolution, a period of extreme technological growth and innovation. Modern production methods and new machinery were introduced, and the textile industry was one of the first to jump on the bandwagon. Spinning and weaving that had been done by hand before was now being done by machine, leading to increased productivity. [1] The first widely used sewing machine was invented in 1830. The earliest machines were operated using a foot-powered treadle or a hand crank. Although this limited their speed, they were still faster than sewing by hand. The first electric machines were introduced in 1889 by the Singer Sewing Co. [2] The introduction of the heavily regimented factory also increased output and lowered prices.

The beginning of globalization, spurred on by capitalism and colonialism, connected suppliers and consumers from around the world like never before. The British Empire is one example. Due to its reach, shoppers in London could purchase Indian cotton, Chinese silk, and other global fabrics and styles, often at affordable prices from the new department stores.

Queen Victoria of Britain, who ruled from 1838 to 1901, had an enormous impact on fashion. She put special effort in supporting the British textile industry and made style choices that were emulated around the globe.

Women’s Fashion

Women’s fashions changed dramatically through the century. The pace of style increased and shifted from decade to decade. This section will just be brief overview and I will be looking at each decade in depth in future posts.

The Empire period (1799-1815), named after Napoleon’s First French Empire, was still influenced by the classical styles of the end of the 18^th century. Dresses were slim and columnar with short sleeves and empire waistlines. Stays became shorter. These styles are also called Jane Austen dress after the English author, whose most well-known books such as Pride and Prejudice are set in this period.

The Regency period, named for George, the Prince Regent of Britain, stretched from 1811-1820. Waistlines began to drop, fabrics became more substantial, and skirts began to widen with the use of flounced or corded petticoats. Wigs were no longer worn, and hair was not powdered; bonnets were common. Hairstyles were kept low with ringlets (sometimes called “spaniel curls”) over the ears. [4]

In the 1820’s, waistlines continued to drop, and bright colors and patterns became popular, as opposed to the solid pastels of the last 18^th century. [5] Sleeves and skirts continued to widen with an increase in embellishment at the hems. Hair was pulled up in loops at the back with curls in front and covered by a bonnet when outside. Shoes were flat slippers.

The 1830’s saw the widening of both skirts and sleeves with the waist cinched in with a corset. [7] Hair retained the front curls but became taller in the back. [8]

In the 1840’s, sleeves narrowed once more but the width of skirts increased with the use of many, many petticoats. Later into the decade, sleeves that flared below the elbow became popular. The fashionable hairstyle still included “spaniel curls” with the remainder of the hair pinned up in the back. Caps and bonnets were common.

The hoop skirt or crinoline was introduced in the 1850’s, allowing women’s skirts to expand to even greater widths. This decade also saw the rise of bell-shaped pagoda sleeves. Hair became simpler and indoor caps and outdoor bonnets were common.

Women’s skirts reached their widest in the 1860’s and the decade also saw the introduction of the first chemical dyes. [10] Wide pagoda sleeves were still the rage. Hair was styled simply, usually pulled back and caps and bonnets were common.

The 1870’s, known as the first bustle period, saw the volume of women’s skirts move to the back with the help of tapes and a bustle. Two skirts became popular. The bustle craze was short-lived and was replaced by a long-line bodice known as a cuirass.

The 1880’s saw the second bustle period with the volume of skirts rising from the bottom to just below the waist. Corseting was essential for achieving the dramatic and fashionable S-shaped silhouette.

The silhouette of the 1890’s slimmed from the previous decade with a hip pad being the only skirt support. The large “leg of mutton” sleeves of the 1830’s made a comeback. The corset became longer, producing a slight S-bend silhouette.

Men’s Fashion

Men’s styles were still dominated by the three-piece suit although it changed from its elaborately embellished 18^th century origins. Under the influence of the dandy, colors became darker and more sober with an emphasis on impeccable tailoring and fit. [3]

During the Empire period, pantaloons, which reached to the calf, were worn along with breeches. They both began to fade in popularity and were almost completely replaced by trousers by the Regency period. Wigs had been abandoned altogether. Hair became shorter and facial hair made a reappearance with sideburns being popular.

In the 1820’s, the influence of the dandy led to an emphasis on tailoring and a slim figure. Men’s corsets became more widely used. The construction of coats changed, with the addition of a waist seam that improved the fit. Trousers became looser and the top hat reappeared. [6] Curly hair with sideburns was popular.

Men’s fashions of the 1830’s also put an emphasis on wide shoulders and a small waist, the same as the women. [9] Frock coats became more common, and waistcoats were single or double breasted. The modern fly-front closure for trousers was replacing the fall-front. Moustaches came into fashion.

The fashionable style for the men in the 1840’s was like the previous decade. Ascots and cravats were common. Different styles of coats were required for varying social occasions. Prince Albert, the husband of Queen Victoria, emerged as a trendsetter.

The 1850’s saw little change in men’s fashions although a new style of coat, the sack coat, became popular. It fitted loosely and came to mid-thigh and was popular for outdoor pursuits. Facial hair of all styles became incredibly trendy.

In the 1860’s the sack coat almost completely displaced the frock coat for informal occasions. Top hats became taller and straighter. The bowler hat became popular as casual headwear.

Patterned shirts became accepted in the 1870’s and neckties were replaced with ascots. Collars were pressed down instead of standing up. Blue jeans were introduced by Levi Strauss in 1873 in San Francisco. [11]

The 1880’s saw a return of the popularity of the “ditto suit,” coat, waistcoat, and trousers made of the same fabric, today known as a three piece. The middle of the decade also saw the introduction of the tuxedo, a more relaxed formal style.

Men’s silhouettes also became leaner and simpler in the 1890’s. The sack coat gradually replaced the frock coat for most social occasions. The informal blazer was also introduced. The necktie and bowtie were popular. Top hat and bowlers were still stylish but straw boaters became fashionable for outdoor activities.

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I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.

If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.

Let’s get writing!

Copyright © 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.

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[1] Landes, D.S. (1969). The Unbound Prometheus: technological change and industrial development in Western Europe from 1750 to present. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press.
[2] "Sewing Machine History – Invention of the Sewing Machine". Archived from the original on 2010-11-24. Retrieved 2010-09-12.
[3] Payne 1865, pp. 452–455
[4] Thomas, Pauline. "Regency & Romantic Hairstyles and Hats 1800–1840 Fashion History".
[5] Tozer and Levitt (1983), p. 29
[6] Kohler, Carl (1963). A History of Costume. New York, NY: Dover Publications. pp. 372–373.
[7] Tortora and Eubank 1994, p. 278
[8] Payne 1969, p. 505
[9] Payne 1969, p. 458
[10] Travis, Anthony S., "Perkin’s Mauve: Ancestor of the Organic Chemical Industry", Technology and Culture 31 (1), 1990 pp. 51–82
[11] http://www.uri.edu/personal/svon6141/history.htm Archived 2011-07-20 at the Wayback Machine The History of Jeans

The Writer’s Guide to 1750-1800 Men’s Fashion

Posted on April 23, 2021     18 Comments

Men’s clothing in the second half of the 18^th century followed the trajectory of women’s fashion. The trends moved away from the elaborate and formal rococo styles, instead adopting a more informal mode known as “undress.” The half century also saw an expression of individuality become more important as well as the macaroni and dandy fads. The trendsetters of this period transitioned from the elites to the middle class. The Enlightenment revolutions of France, America, and Haiti also had a large impact on fashion.

Underwear and Casual Wear

Just as during the first half of the century, the main undergarment worn by all classes of men was the shirt. It was often made from linen although expensive cotton was becoming more common. It had full sleeves that gathered into a cuff that was either plain or sported ruffles. The neck slit and cuffs fastened with buttons and a stock was worn around the neck. The shirt usually extended to mid-thigh and the tails were tucked around the crotch in place of underwear. [1]

The banyan was still popular for wearing casually around the house. It became fashionable for men who styled themselves as intellectuals to have their portraits painted in their banyans, often with their own hair instead of a wig. [2]

1750-1775

The gap between formal and informal or “undress” styles became more pronounced. Informal fashions were better suited to the outdoor pursuits that had become popular. There was also a growing desire to appear effortlessly fashionable and composed.

The suit, made of a coat, waistcoat, and breeches, was still king through most of this half century. Over the decades some changes were made. The wide coat cuffs of the 1750s gradually shrank and the skirts became narrower as the gores were removed. Waistcoats became shorter, breeches became tighter. A new style, the frock coat, became fashionable in Britain and America for outdoor activities such as hunting. [3] Common footwear was still low buckle shoes worn with clocked stockings although boots were worn for riding.

Hair was becoming shorter as were wigs although both were usually still clubbed (tied at the nape) with a black ribbon. Powder and pomade were increasingly only worn for formal occasions. The cocked or tricorn hat was still the most popular.

The rise of Macaroni fashion began in the 1760s. Young elite men would travel across Europe, especially to Italy, in what became known as the Grand Tour. The tour was supposed to expose them to other cultures but usually was just an excuse to drink, party, and chase women. Young men returned wearing foreign fashions and often behaved in an extravagant and gender ambiguous manner. [4] The macaroni favored large wigs with small hats, delicate shoes, and short, tight breeches. By the 1770’s, men who had never been on the Grand Tour were imitating the fashion. The style was roundly criticized for being pretentious and inauthentic and satirized in the press. [5]

1775-1789

This period saw the continued prevalence of casual styles of “undress,” especially in Europe’s colonies around the world. Dark, more muted colors became more prevalent and embroidery and fancy fabrics such as silk and velvet began to disappear. [6] Benjamin Franklin shocked the French court during his visit by wearing his plain Quaker outfit and no wig.

Suits were still the standard. Coats began to cutaway and had less full skirts. Waistcoats became shorter until they were waist-length and cut straight across the bottom. Breeches became tighter since they were more visible. Shoes were the same as the previous period as were hairstyles. The tricorn hat still enjoyed popularity although a new style of cocked hat known as the bicorn emerged, which was turned up only at the front and back. Narrow brimmed, tall, conical hats, the forerunner of the top hat, also came into fashion at the end of this period.

1789-1800

Just like women’s trends, the French and American revolutions and a renewed interest in the classical aesthetic had a huge impact on men’s fashion. Darker, more somber colors became the standard. Overall, clothing became simpler with an increased emphasis on tailoring. The cutaway coats and waist-length waistcoats of 1775-1789 continued to be worn.

Breeches lengthened, first reaching to the top of the boot, then gave way to ankle-length trousers. Breeches became associated with the nobility, which nobody wanted to be part of in the aftermath of the French Revolution. In fact, the French rebels were known as sans-culottes or “the people without breeches.” [7] French citizens were pressured to incorporate the red, white, and blue of the flag into their clothing with the cockade being a popular way of doing this.

Overcoats, also known as greatcoats, became stylish. They often had several caplets attached at the collar, which was often a contrasting fabric such as fur or velvet. Boots replaced buckle shoes.

This period also saw the rise of the dandy, a man who placed great importance on style, impeccable tailoring, and immaculate outfits. [8] The father of dandyism was Beau Brummell, a middleclass Englishman. He pioneered the replacement of breeches with trousers, short hair, and the reintroduction of facial hair.

Working Class Clothing

Lower class men wore the suit the same as the upper classes but made of sturdier and plainer fabric. Working men would often wear long trousers instead of breeches and short jackets. This was especially common among sailors. Smock-frocks were worn over a man’s clothes to protect them and were popular with shepherds. They were often embellished with decorative gathering known as smocking. Broad brimmed hats were worn without the sides cocked up. Shoes were sturdy and closed with plain buckles, if they could be afforded, and boots were worn when working with livestock.

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I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.

If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here. https://rebeccashedd.com/contact-me/

Let’s get writing!

Copyright © 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.

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[1] Ribeiro, Aileen: The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France 1750–1820, Yale University Press, 1995, ISBN 0300062877.
[2] "Franklin and Friends". Retrieved 2006-03-19.
[3] Ribeiro, Aileen: The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France 1750–1820, Yale University Press, 1995, ISBN 0300062877
[4] S. West, The Darly Macaroni Prints and the Politics of the Private Man, Duke University Press
[5] Chenoune, Farid (1993). A History of Men's Fashion. Paris: Flammarion. ISBN 9782080135360.
[6] Ribeiro, Aileen: The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France 1750–1820, Yale University Press, 1995, ISBN 0-300-06287-7
[7] Perl, Lila (1990). From Top Hats to Baseball Caps, From Bustles to Blue Jeans. New York: Clarion Books. p. 33. ISBN 0899198724.
[8] Payne 1865, pp. 452–455

The Writer’s Guide to 1750-1800 Women’s Fashion

Posted on April 16, 2021     20 Comments

In today’s article, I will be explaining late 18^th century women’s styles in more depth. The fashions at the beginning of the second half of the decade was similar to those of the previous half century and were typified, especially in France, by opulence, excess, and flamboyance, although the English styles were generally simpler and more practical.

Then Britain’s American colonies exploded into revolution in 1775 followed by the French Revolution beginning in 1789. Both events had an enormous and lasting impact on fashion.

Underwear

The linen chemise was still the first layer worn by all classes of women. The sleeves narrowed from the previous half century, becoming snug and elbow length.

Stays were also worn by all classes and offered back support for working women. By the 1760’s, stays had lost their straps and were cut higher into the armpit to encourage the wearer to put her shoulders back into the fashionable silhouette.

Pockets, which were tied around the waist and accessed through slits in the skirts, persisted.

Women would wear several layers of petticoats for warmth and structural support of the outer skirt.

Stockings held up by tied ribbon or woven garters were worn by all classes. Those sported by the rich would be made of silk with a design at the ankle known as clocks. Working women wore flat shoes with buckles if they could afford them while those of the middle and upper classes had a thick curved “louis heel” and were made of fabric or leather with separate decorated buckles. [2]

1750-1775

Many of the styles from the previous half century continued to be popular such as the robe à la française, the robe à l’anglaise and the riding habit. Engageantes, the flounces and ruffles at the end of sleeves, stayed popular although they increasingly became a separate piece tacked in place. [1] The fichu continued to be worn to fill in the low neckline of gowns during the day.

Shortgowns, a front-closing thigh-length garment, were common loungewear over the petticoats and shift. Over time, they became a staple garment for the British and American working class. [5]

The Brunswick dress came into fashion during this period. It was a German traveling costume consisting of a skirt, a thigh-length jacket with a hood and elbow length sleeves, and separate narrow sleeves that covered the forearms. It was usually worn over a high-necked blouse.

Court dress or grand habit de cour lagged increasingly behind the fashions of the day, retaining the 1670’s silhouette with a low wide neckline that bared the shoulders and back-lacing heavily boned bodices. [3]

This period saw the extremes of hair with styles reaching incredible heights and decorated with small curls known as buckles, plumes, ribbons, caps, and jewelry. Both hard and soft pomatum or pomade as well as powder was essential to achieving these hairstyles. Wigs were popular among the nobility. [4]

1775-1789

While the fashions of 1750-1775 remained popular, several other styles such as the Italian gown, the caraco, the redingote, and the gaulle or chemise á la Reine came into vogue.

The Italian gown had a smooth fitted back that came to a point. The skirt was open, and the bodice could be either closed or open and filled in with a stomacher. [6]

The caraco was a style of thigh-length jacket with elbow-length sleeves worn over a petticoat.

The word redingote is the French mispronunciation of riding coat. It was an informal style of jacket with a long skirt that was based on a working-class fashion.

The chemise á la Reine was a style developed by Marie Antoinette. To escape her crappy marriage and the stress of her children’s illness and court life, she would play peasant with her most trusted friends in a rustic retreat. She designed a loose gauzy muslin dress with drawstrings at the waist and neck. The style shocked society and led to hatred for the queen who looked like she was only wearing her underwear. [7]

Panniers dropped out of fashion for everything but the most formal dress and were replaced by false rumps also known as bum rolls. These were pillows that were tied around the waist and padded out the skirts in the back, essentially putting some “junk in your trunk.” Some styles had two separate pads and were known as split rumps. The back point of the Italian gown would fit between them, producing a rather suggestive shape.

Hair was still styled high and elaborately in the 1770’s often with a lot of decoration. These styles were frequently satirized in the publications of the day. By the 1780’s, hats and caps had become all the rage especially country styles like the mop cap and the low-brimmed straw hat. Unpowdered natural hair was also becoming more popular, usually dressed in a mass of curls.

1789-1800

Starting in the 1780’s and early 1790’s, the fashionable silhouette began to slim out and the waistline started to rise. The French Revolution in 1789 had an enormous impact on fashion. It became dangerous to dress as upper class. Informal and neo-classical styles came to dominate and saw the expulsion of skirt supports, rich fabrics, and heavy boning, becoming known as the “Directoire style” in reference to the Directory government of the last half of the 1790’s. [9] However even after the fall of the monarchy and aristocracy, France continued to set the trends.

The ancient Greek and Roman styles captured the public’s imagination thanks to the discoveries of Herculaneum in 1738 and Pompeii in 1763. [10] The performances of Emma Hamilton in the 1790’s also boasted their popularity. The beginning of the Industrial Revolution saw the availability of cheaper fabrics and the introduction of the sewing machine in 1790. [8]

Dresses became slim with an empire waist often with short puffy sleeves or sometimes no sleeves. This style continued into the 19^th century. The fabrics used were lightweight and sometimes sheer, often in pastel colors. Shawls and short-waisted jackets such as the redingote were worn over the dresses for warmth. The long-waisted heavily boned stays were tossed out in favor of short stays. In revolutionary France, wearing no stays or even exposing the breasts were popular due to the iconography of the Revolution and the push to have women nurse their own children. [11]

Hair was natural and shaped in Classical styles. Blonde was a popular color. Hats and turbans were fashionable. Make up was kept discrete and natural.

Working Class Fashion

The working class kept up with the fashions of the day the best they could. Thanks to fashion magazines and more availability of cloth, they could mimic the popular silhouette. With the explosion of the French revolution, it became trendy to dress as a peasant. Partly this was in support of the revolution and partly because looking like nobility was hazardous to your health.

A working woman would wear petticoats and dresses or jackets. However, her hair would be plainly styled without pomatum or powder and often topped with a cap to keep it clean and out of the way. If she were outside, she would often wear a broad-brimmed straw hat. Bedgowns, a front-closing thigh-length shortgown, became popular with working women in both Britain and America. She would also always wear a neckerchief.

Her shoes were flat but would still close with a buckle if she could afford them.

Short, hooded cloaks made from red fabric were common in England and are probably the origin of Little Red Riding Hood. They were also the closest England came to have a national dress.

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I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.

If  you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.

Let’s get writing!

Copyright © 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.

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[1] "Mrs. Richard Skinner :: John Singleton Copley - 4 women's portraits 18th century hall". www.fineartlib.info. Retrieved 2018-03-13.
[2] Tortora & Eubank 1995, p. 272. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1750%E2%80%931775_in_Western_fashion
[3] Waugh, Norah (1968). The Cut of Women's Clothes: 1600–1930. New York: Routledge. pp. 66–67, 69. ISBN 0878300260.
[4] Courtais, Georgine de (2006). Women's hats, headdresses, and hairstyles: with 453 illustrations, medieval to modern. Mineola, N.Y.: Dover Publications. p. 76. ISBN 0486448509.
[5] Baumgarten, What Clothes Reveal, pp. 116–119.
[6] Stowell, Lauren and Abby Cox (2019), The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Beauty. Salem, MA: Page Street Publishing, Co.
[7] Werlin, Katy. "The Chemise a la Reine". The Fashion Historian. Retrieved 27 March 2010.
[8] Ashelford, J. The art of dress: Clothes and society, 1500–1914. National Trust. pp. 195–197. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1795%E2%80%931820_in_Western_fashion
[9] Betty-Bright P. Low, "Of Muslins and Merveilleuses," Winterthur Portfolio, vol 9 (1974), 29–75.
[10] Cage, E. Claire (2009). "The Sartorial Self: Neoclassical Fashion and Gender Identity in France, 1797–1804". Eighteenth-Century Studies. 42 (2): 193–215. doi:10.1353/ecs.0.0039.
[11] Yalom, Marilyn. A History of the Breast. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1997. Print.

The Writer’s Guide to 1700-1750 Men’s Fashion

Posted on April 9, 2021     10 Comments

Today I will be diving into the men’s fashions of the first half of the 18^th century. Just like with the ladies, the styles during this period were extravagant, over-the-top, and heavily influenced by the French Court. Louis XIV of France, also known as the Sun King, dominated fashion until his death in 1715.

If you just need a basic run down of 18th century fashions, I encourage you to read my previous article.

Underwear & Casual Wear

The shirt was the only “underwear” worn during this period. It had a slit in the front to provide enough room to pull it over the head and was closed with ties or buttons. Sometimes ruffles were used to disguise the slit. A stock or cravat would be worn around the neck of the shirt. The cuffs were closed with either thread buttons or two metal buttons connected by a short light chain. They could either be a plain band or embellished with lace and ruffles. It was often made of linen although cotton was becoming more common although expensive.

Smallclothes or brais had fallen out of fashion in the 15^th century and men would tuck the tails of their shirts between their legs.

A loose dressing gown known as a banyan was worn casually around the house either over the nightshirt or the shirt and breeches.

The Suit

The suit was the standard in men’s wear by this century and consisted of breeches, a waistcoat, and a coat. The suit could be made of matching fabric, called a ditto suit, or of different fabrics although the coat and breeches were often of the same fabric. Silk, velvet, and brocades were commonly used for suits among the well-to-do. The less wealthy would use wool and linen. [3] Embroidery was a common form of embellishment, usually on the edges, cuffs, and pockets of coats and the edges and pockets of waistcoats. The embroidery could be incredibly detailed and cover a large area of the garment.

The breeches were knee length with a front fall flap. They buttoned at the waistband with the fly buttoning over that. Button fly breeches did exist, but they were an older less-popular style. Most breeches had at least one pocket, most commonly two side pockets as well as a small watch pocket on the waistband. They were cut full in the back and gathered at the waist to provide enough room to sit and ride. The legs were narrow with a slit on the outside of each knee that was closed with buttons. The knee band fastened with either buttons or buckles and helped keep the stockings up.

The waistcoat started the century long, coming almost to the knee, per the style of the 17^th century but over time it began to shorten. The bottom edge often had the corners cut off producing a V-shape at the front. The waistcoat was normally straight and fitted. Although it buttoned up to the neck the top 3-4 buttons were usually left undone to display the shirt ruffle and cravat. Most had pockets with large, decorated flaps. It was common for waistcoats to be made of the fanciest fabric and correspond but not match the rest of the suit.

The coat, also known as a justaucorps, was worn over the waistcoat. It was long, usually reaching to the knees with the front edge curving to the back. The back had a long vent running from the waist to the hem at the center back and two side-back pleats to achieve more volume. They were often stiffened with buckram or horsehair. [2] Although they had buttons they were usually not meant to be closed and the buttonholes were often fake. The armholes were tight, and the sleeves narrow, ending in a wide turned-back cuff. The coat also had pockets with large flaps that closed with three buttons.

Shoes

Men’s shoes were square-toed and closed with a buckle. Some were flat while others had a low square heel. It became customary in England for a gentleman to paint his heels red if he had been to court and had an audience with the king. The most common color was black, but shoes were made in a variety of other colors and pastels were prevalent in the French court. Buckles could be plain or heavily embellished with jewels. [1]

Stockings were silk, wool, or cotton and came in a wide variety of colors. A decorative design at the ankle known as clocks was popular.

Accessories

A variety of accessories were carried by men including handkerchiefs, canes, and snuffboxes. Watches were popular because they were still a novelty. They were usually attached to a decorated strip of ribbon or leather called a watch fob that would hang over the top of the watch pocket.

Hairstyles & Headwear

The wig was common across most social classes except the poorest. They were styled with hard and soft pomatums or pomades and powder. White was the most popular powder color, but other pastels were used. A series of horizontal tight curls above the ears known as buckles were a popular style. Later into the half century, wigs and a man’s natural hair were pulled back into a low ponytail called a club with a black ribbon. Starting in the 1720’s, a black silk bag covered the club.

Tricorns or black felt hats with the brim turned up or cocked on three sides was the most popular headwear for all classes.

Working Class Fashion

Thanks to the new fashion magazines, the lower classes could follow the latest styles. They were limited however by the quality of fabric and embellishment they could afford. Although knee-length breeches were the popular style most working men wore more practical ankle-length trousers. They also favored short jackets which stayed out of the way better than the long coat. Boots were worn by those working with livestock with simple sturdy low shoes worn by the rest.

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[1] Warren, Geoffrey (1987). Fashion Accessories Since 1500. New York: Drama Book Publishers. pp. 62, 67.
[2] Byrde 1979
[3] Russell, Douglas A. (1983). Costume History and Style. Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey: Prentice-Hall, Inc. p. 281. ISBN 0-13-181214-9.