The Writer’s Guide to 1750-1800 Men’s Fashion
Posted on April 23, 2021 18 Comments
Men’s clothing in the second half of the 18th century followed the trajectory of women’s fashion. The trends moved away from the elaborate and formal rococo styles, instead adopting a more informal mode known as “undress.” The half century also saw an expression of individuality become more important as well as the macaroni and dandy fads. The trendsetters of this period transitioned from the elites to the middle class. The Enlightenment revolutions of France, America, and Haiti also had a large impact on fashion.
Underwear and Casual Wear
Just as during the first half of the century, the main undergarment worn by all classes of men was the shirt. It was often made from linen although expensive cotton was becoming more common. It had full sleeves that gathered into a cuff that was either plain or sported ruffles. The neck slit and cuffs fastened with buttons and a stock was worn around the neck. The shirt usually extended to mid-thigh and the tails were tucked around the crotch in place of underwear. [1]
The banyan was still popular for wearing casually around the house. It became fashionable for men who styled themselves as intellectuals to have their portraits painted in their banyans, often with their own hair instead of a wig. [2]
1750-1775
The gap between formal and informal or “undress” styles became more pronounced. Informal fashions were better suited to the outdoor pursuits that had become popular. There was also a growing desire to appear effortlessly fashionable and composed.
The suit, made of a coat, waistcoat, and breeches, was still king through most of this half century. Over the decades some changes were made. The wide coat cuffs of the 1750s gradually shrank and the skirts became narrower as the gores were removed. Waistcoats became shorter, breeches became tighter. A new style, the frock coat, became fashionable in Britain and America for outdoor activities such as hunting. [3] Common footwear was still low buckle shoes worn with clocked stockings although boots were worn for riding.
Hair was becoming shorter as were wigs although both were usually still clubbed (tied at the nape) with a black ribbon. Powder and pomade were increasingly only worn for formal occasions. The cocked or tricorn hat was still the most popular.
The rise of Macaroni fashion began in the 1760s. Young elite men would travel across Europe, especially to Italy, in what became known as the Grand Tour. The tour was supposed to expose them to other cultures but usually was just an excuse to drink, party, and chase women. Young men returned wearing foreign fashions and often behaved in an extravagant and gender ambiguous manner. [4] The macaroni favored large wigs with small hats, delicate shoes, and short, tight breeches. By the 1770’s, men who had never been on the Grand Tour were imitating the fashion. The style was roundly criticized for being pretentious and inauthentic and satirized in the press. [5]
1775-1789
This period saw the continued prevalence of casual styles of “undress,” especially in Europe’s colonies around the world. Dark, more muted colors became more prevalent and embroidery and fancy fabrics such as silk and velvet began to disappear. [6] Benjamin Franklin shocked the French court during his visit by wearing his plain Quaker outfit and no wig.
Suits were still the standard. Coats began to cutaway and had less full skirts. Waistcoats became shorter until they were waist-length and cut straight across the bottom. Breeches became tighter since they were more visible. Shoes were the same as the previous period as were hairstyles. The tricorn hat still enjoyed popularity although a new style of cocked hat known as the bicorn emerged, which was turned up only at the front and back. Narrow brimmed, tall, conical hats, the forerunner of the top hat, also came into fashion at the end of this period.
1789-1800
Just like women’s trends, the French and American revolutions and a renewed interest in the classical aesthetic had a huge impact on men’s fashion. Darker, more somber colors became the standard. Overall, clothing became simpler with an increased emphasis on tailoring. The cutaway coats and waist-length waistcoats of 1775-1789 continued to be worn.
Breeches lengthened, first reaching to the top of the boot, then gave way to ankle-length trousers. Breeches became associated with the nobility, which nobody wanted to be part of in the aftermath of the French Revolution. In fact, the French rebels were known as sans-culottes or “the people without breeches.” [7] French citizens were pressured to incorporate the red, white, and blue of the flag into their clothing with the cockade being a popular way of doing this.
Overcoats, also known as greatcoats, became stylish. They often had several caplets attached at the collar, which was often a contrasting fabric such as fur or velvet. Boots replaced buckle shoes.
This period also saw the rise of the dandy, a man who placed great importance on style, impeccable tailoring, and immaculate outfits. [8] The father of dandyism was Beau Brummell, a middleclass Englishman. He pioneered the replacement of breeches with trousers, short hair, and the reintroduction of facial hair.
Working Class Clothing
Lower class men wore the suit the same as the upper classes but made of sturdier and plainer fabric. Working men would often wear long trousers instead of breeches and short jackets. This was especially common among sailors. Smock-frocks were worn over a man’s clothes to protect them and were popular with shepherds. They were often embellished with decorative gathering known as smocking. Broad brimmed hats were worn without the sides cocked up. Shoes were sturdy and closed with plain buckles, if they could be afforded, and boots were worn when working with livestock.
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here. https://rebeccashedd.com/contact-me/
Let’s get writing!
Copyright © 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
[1] Ribeiro, Aileen: The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France 1750–1820, Yale University Press, 1995, ISBN 0300062877. [2] "Franklin and Friends". Retrieved 2006-03-19. [3] Ribeiro, Aileen: The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France 1750–1820, Yale University Press, 1995, ISBN 0300062877 [4] S. West, The Darly Macaroni Prints and the Politics of the Private Man, Duke University Press [5] Chenoune, Farid (1993). A History of Men's Fashion. Paris: Flammarion. ISBN 9782080135360. [6] Ribeiro, Aileen: The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France 1750–1820, Yale University Press, 1995, ISBN 0-300-06287-7 [7] Perl, Lila (1990). From Top Hats to Baseball Caps, From Bustles to Blue Jeans. New York: Clarion Books. p. 33. ISBN 0899198724. [8] Payne 1865, pp. 452–455
The Writer’s Guide to 1750-1800 Women’s Fashion
Posted on April 16, 2021 20 Comments
In today’s article, I will be explaining late 18th century women’s styles in more depth. The fashions at the beginning of the second half of the decade was similar to those of the previous half century and were typified, especially in France, by opulence, excess, and flamboyance, although the English styles were generally simpler and more practical.
Then Britain’s American colonies exploded into revolution in 1775 followed by the French Revolution beginning in 1789. Both events had an enormous and lasting impact on fashion.
Underwear
The linen chemise was still the first layer worn by all classes of women. The sleeves narrowed from the previous half century, becoming snug and elbow length.
Stays were also worn by all classes and offered back support for working women. By the 1760’s, stays had lost their straps and were cut higher into the armpit to encourage the wearer to put her shoulders back into the fashionable silhouette.
Pockets, which were tied around the waist and accessed through slits in the skirts, persisted.
Women would wear several layers of petticoats for warmth and structural support of the outer skirt.
Stockings held up by tied ribbon or woven garters were worn by all classes. Those sported by the rich would be made of silk with a design at the ankle known as clocks. Working women wore flat shoes with buckles if they could afford them while those of the middle and upper classes had a thick curved “louis heel” and were made of fabric or leather with separate decorated buckles. [2]
1750-1775
Many of the styles from the previous half century continued to be popular such as the robe à la française, the robe à l’anglaise and the riding habit. Engageantes, the flounces and ruffles at the end of sleeves, stayed popular although they increasingly became a separate piece tacked in place. [1] The fichu continued to be worn to fill in the low neckline of gowns during the day.
Shortgowns, a front-closing thigh-length garment, were common loungewear over the petticoats and shift. Over time, they became a staple garment for the British and American working class. [5]
The Brunswick dress came into fashion during this period. It was a German traveling costume consisting of a skirt, a thigh-length jacket with a hood and elbow length sleeves, and separate narrow sleeves that covered the forearms. It was usually worn over a high-necked blouse.
Court dress or grand habit de cour lagged increasingly behind the fashions of the day, retaining the 1670’s silhouette with a low wide neckline that bared the shoulders and back-lacing heavily boned bodices. [3]
This period saw the extremes of hair with styles reaching incredible heights and decorated with small curls known as buckles, plumes, ribbons, caps, and jewelry. Both hard and soft pomatum or pomade as well as powder was essential to achieving these hairstyles. Wigs were popular among the nobility. [4]
1775-1789
While the fashions of 1750-1775 remained popular, several other styles such as the Italian gown, the caraco, the redingote, and the gaulle or chemise á la Reine came into vogue.
The Italian gown had a smooth fitted back that came to a point. The skirt was open, and the bodice could be either closed or open and filled in with a stomacher. [6]
The caraco was a style of thigh-length jacket with elbow-length sleeves worn over a petticoat.
The word redingote is the French mispronunciation of riding coat. It was an informal style of jacket with a long skirt that was based on a working-class fashion.
The chemise á la Reine was a style developed by Marie Antoinette. To escape her crappy marriage and the stress of her children’s illness and court life, she would play peasant with her most trusted friends in a rustic retreat. She designed a loose gauzy muslin dress with drawstrings at the waist and neck. The style shocked society and led to hatred for the queen who looked like she was only wearing her underwear. [7]
Panniers dropped out of fashion for everything but the most formal dress and were replaced by false rumps also known as bum rolls. These were pillows that were tied around the waist and padded out the skirts in the back, essentially putting some “junk in your trunk.” Some styles had two separate pads and were known as split rumps. The back point of the Italian gown would fit between them, producing a rather suggestive shape.
Hair was still styled high and elaborately in the 1770’s often with a lot of decoration. These styles were frequently satirized in the publications of the day. By the 1780’s, hats and caps had become all the rage especially country styles like the mop cap and the low-brimmed straw hat. Unpowdered natural hair was also becoming more popular, usually dressed in a mass of curls.
1789-1800
Starting in the 1780’s and early 1790’s, the fashionable silhouette began to slim out and the waistline started to rise. The French Revolution in 1789 had an enormous impact on fashion. It became dangerous to dress as upper class. Informal and neo-classical styles came to dominate and saw the expulsion of skirt supports, rich fabrics, and heavy boning, becoming known as the “Directoire style” in reference to the Directory government of the last half of the 1790’s. [9] However even after the fall of the monarchy and aristocracy, France continued to set the trends.
The ancient Greek and Roman styles captured the public’s imagination thanks to the discoveries of Herculaneum in 1738 and Pompeii in 1763. [10] The performances of Emma Hamilton in the 1790’s also boasted their popularity. The beginning of the Industrial Revolution saw the availability of cheaper fabrics and the introduction of the sewing machine in 1790. [8]
Dresses became slim with an empire waist often with short puffy sleeves or sometimes no sleeves. This style continued into the 19th century. The fabrics used were lightweight and sometimes sheer, often in pastel colors. Shawls and short-waisted jackets such as the redingote were worn over the dresses for warmth. The long-waisted heavily boned stays were tossed out in favor of short stays. In revolutionary France, wearing no stays or even exposing the breasts were popular due to the iconography of the Revolution and the push to have women nurse their own children. [11]
Hair was natural and shaped in Classical styles. Blonde was a popular color. Hats and turbans were fashionable. Make up was kept discrete and natural.
Working Class Fashion
The working class kept up with the fashions of the day the best they could. Thanks to fashion magazines and more availability of cloth, they could mimic the popular silhouette. With the explosion of the French revolution, it became trendy to dress as a peasant. Partly this was in support of the revolution and partly because looking like nobility was hazardous to your health.
A working woman would wear petticoats and dresses or jackets. However, her hair would be plainly styled without pomatum or powder and often topped with a cap to keep it clean and out of the way. If she were outside, she would often wear a broad-brimmed straw hat. Bedgowns, a front-closing thigh-length shortgown, became popular with working women in both Britain and America. She would also always wear a neckerchief.
Her shoes were flat but would still close with a buckle if she could afford them.
Short, hooded cloaks made from red fabric were common in England and are probably the origin of Little Red Riding Hood. They were also the closest England came to have a national dress.
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.
Let’s get writing!
Copyright © 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
[1] "Mrs. Richard Skinner :: John Singleton Copley - 4 women's portraits 18th century hall". www.fineartlib.info. Retrieved 2018-03-13. [2] Tortora & Eubank 1995, p. 272. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1750%E2%80%931775_in_Western_fashion [3] Waugh, Norah (1968). The Cut of Women's Clothes: 1600–1930. New York: Routledge. pp. 66–67, 69. ISBN 0878300260. [4] Courtais, Georgine de (2006). Women's hats, headdresses, and hairstyles: with 453 illustrations, medieval to modern. Mineola, N.Y.: Dover Publications. p. 76. ISBN 0486448509. [5] Baumgarten, What Clothes Reveal, pp. 116–119. [6] Stowell, Lauren and Abby Cox (2019), The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Beauty. Salem, MA: Page Street Publishing, Co. [7] Werlin, Katy. "The Chemise a la Reine". The Fashion Historian. Retrieved 27 March 2010. [8] Ashelford, J. The art of dress: Clothes and society, 1500–1914. National Trust. pp. 195–197. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1795%E2%80%931820_in_Western_fashion [9] Betty-Bright P. Low, "Of Muslins and Merveilleuses," Winterthur Portfolio, vol 9 (1974), 29–75. [10] Cage, E. Claire (2009). "The Sartorial Self: Neoclassical Fashion and Gender Identity in France, 1797–1804". Eighteenth-Century Studies. 42 (2): 193–215. doi:10.1353/ecs.0.0039. [11] Yalom, Marilyn. A History of the Breast. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1997. Print.
The Writer’s Guide to 1700-1750 Men’s Fashion
Posted on April 9, 2021 10 Comments
Today I will be diving into the men’s fashions of the first half of the 18th century. Just like with the ladies, the styles during this period were extravagant, over-the-top, and heavily influenced by the French Court. Louis XIV of France, also known as the Sun King, dominated fashion until his death in 1715.
If you just need a basic run down of 18th century fashions, I encourage you to read my previous article.
Underwear & Casual Wear
The shirt was the only “underwear” worn during this period. It had a slit in the front to provide enough room to pull it over the head and was closed with ties or buttons. Sometimes ruffles were used to disguise the slit. A stock or cravat would be worn around the neck of the shirt. The cuffs were closed with either thread buttons or two metal buttons connected by a short light chain. They could either be a plain band or embellished with lace and ruffles. It was often made of linen although cotton was becoming more common although expensive.
Smallclothes or brais had fallen out of fashion in the 15th century and men would tuck the tails of their shirts between their legs.
A loose dressing gown known as a banyan was worn casually around the house either over the nightshirt or the shirt and breeches.
The Suit
The suit was the standard in men’s wear by this century and consisted of breeches, a waistcoat, and a coat. The suit could be made of matching fabric, called a ditto suit, or of different fabrics although the coat and breeches were often of the same fabric. Silk, velvet, and brocades were commonly used for suits among the well-to-do. The less wealthy would use wool and linen. [3] Embroidery was a common form of embellishment, usually on the edges, cuffs, and pockets of coats and the edges and pockets of waistcoats. The embroidery could be incredibly detailed and cover a large area of the garment.
The breeches were knee length with a front fall flap. They buttoned at the waistband with the fly buttoning over that. Button fly breeches did exist, but they were an older less-popular style. Most breeches had at least one pocket, most commonly two side pockets as well as a small watch pocket on the waistband. They were cut full in the back and gathered at the waist to provide enough room to sit and ride. The legs were narrow with a slit on the outside of each knee that was closed with buttons. The knee band fastened with either buttons or buckles and helped keep the stockings up.
The waistcoat started the century long, coming almost to the knee, per the style of the 17th century but over time it began to shorten. The bottom edge often had the corners cut off producing a V-shape at the front. The waistcoat was normally straight and fitted. Although it buttoned up to the neck the top 3-4 buttons were usually left undone to display the shirt ruffle and cravat. Most had pockets with large, decorated flaps. It was common for waistcoats to be made of the fanciest fabric and correspond but not match the rest of the suit.
The coat, also known as a justaucorps, was worn over the waistcoat. It was long, usually reaching to the knees with the front edge curving to the back. The back had a long vent running from the waist to the hem at the center back and two side-back pleats to achieve more volume. They were often stiffened with buckram or horsehair. [2] Although they had buttons they were usually not meant to be closed and the buttonholes were often fake. The armholes were tight, and the sleeves narrow, ending in a wide turned-back cuff. The coat also had pockets with large flaps that closed with three buttons.
Shoes
Men’s shoes were square-toed and closed with a buckle. Some were flat while others had a low square heel. It became customary in England for a gentleman to paint his heels red if he had been to court and had an audience with the king. The most common color was black, but shoes were made in a variety of other colors and pastels were prevalent in the French court. Buckles could be plain or heavily embellished with jewels. [1]
Stockings were silk, wool, or cotton and came in a wide variety of colors. A decorative design at the ankle known as clocks was popular.
Accessories
A variety of accessories were carried by men including handkerchiefs, canes, and snuffboxes. Watches were popular because they were still a novelty. They were usually attached to a decorated strip of ribbon or leather called a watch fob that would hang over the top of the watch pocket.
Hairstyles & Headwear
The wig was common across most social classes except the poorest. They were styled with hard and soft pomatums or pomades and powder. White was the most popular powder color, but other pastels were used. A series of horizontal tight curls above the ears known as buckles were a popular style. Later into the half century, wigs and a man’s natural hair were pulled back into a low ponytail called a club with a black ribbon. Starting in the 1720’s, a black silk bag covered the club.
Tricorns or black felt hats with the brim turned up or cocked on three sides was the most popular headwear for all classes.
Working Class Fashion
Thanks to the new fashion magazines, the lower classes could follow the latest styles. They were limited however by the quality of fabric and embellishment they could afford. Although knee-length breeches were the popular style most working men wore more practical ankle-length trousers. They also favored short jackets which stayed out of the way better than the long coat. Boots were worn by those working with livestock with simple sturdy low shoes worn by the rest.
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.
Let’s get writing!
Copyright © 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
[1] Warren, Geoffrey (1987). Fashion Accessories Since 1500. New York: Drama Book Publishers. pp. 62, 67. [2] Byrde 1979 [3] Russell, Douglas A. (1983). Costume History and Style. Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey: Prentice-Hall, Inc. p. 281. ISBN 0-13-181214-9.
The Writer’s Guide to 1700-1750 Women’s Fashion
Posted on April 2, 2021 4 Comments
Today I will be doing a deeper dive into the details of women’s fashions in the first half of the 18th century. The styles of this period were heavily influenced by the French court at Versailles and by French fashion divas such as Marie Antoinette and Madam de Pompadour.
If you just need a basic run down of 18th century fashions, I encourage you to read my previous article here.
Underwear
Just as for centuries before, the first layer worn by all classes of women was the linen chemise or shift. Early in the century they had full sleeves, but they gradually shortened to elbow length and became tight fitted.
Stays were also worn by all classes. Some had lacing in the front and back, meaning the woman could lace them herself. Others laced only in the back and required a maid. Depending on the boning material used they could be quite rigid or flexible. A type of stays known as jumps only had flexible cording and were quite comfortable. Upper class stays were usually boned with baleen from whales. This type of boning is more flexible than the Victorian metal boning and conformed to the wearer’s shape with body heat and time. Some back-lacing stays had a pocket for a busk in front, a piece of wood that provided a stiff line. Some styles had shoulder straps while others were strapless. The straps were used to pull the shoulders back.
Petticoats were worn to support the outer skirt and fill out the silhouette as well as providing warmth. Quilted petticoats were worn in winter.
A style of hoop skirt was worn during this period but rather than being round as in previous centuries it was oblong, flat in the front and back with all the width at the hips. It was a staple of court dress because it was required to pull off the wide-hipped fashions as well as preventing the wearer from sitting in the presence of royalty. Panniers were a simpler style of skirt support worn by the nobility and upper classes during this period and are distinctively French. Worn in pairs and tied around the waist, they padded out the hips and spread out the skirt for display. They had the benefit of allowing the wearer to sit. Under Marie Antoinette they became as wide as three feet (0.9 m) on either side. [1]
Pockets, which were an independent item, were tied around the waist over the stays but under the petticoats and skirts and were accessed through slits in the sides of those garments. They were sizable and could easily hold a modern smartphone. They were often embroidered and personalized.
Dress Fashions
At the beginning of the century, formal dresses were known as mantuas. Mantua making continued through the century to describe dress making and was dominated by women. A closed or round dress was one with a solid skirt while an open gown had a split skirt that displayed the matching or contrasting petticoat underneath. Open gowns could also have an open bodice that was filled in with a stomacher. Soft pastels in cotton and silk were popular with those who could afford them as well as chintz, block-printed Indian cotton. Embellishments of trim or lace were common as were robings, a strip of gathered fabric.
Sleeves started the century full and were caught up at the elbow to show off the chemise’s lace-trimmed edges. Over time, the sleeves became shorter and tighter until they ended at the elbow. As the half century progressed, engageantes or sleeve flounces of lace and fabric were added at the ends.
A band of lace known as a tucker was tacked to the inside of the neckline of dresses for added embellishment. It became popular around 1730. [2] Fichus or neckerchiefs were often worn to fill in the low open necklines for warmth or to protect against the sun.
Most women’s clothing was pinned closed or into place, attaching them to the stays. The pins were usually inserted above a bone, so the woman didn’t stab herself. Stomachers were pinned to the stays and the dress pinned to the edge of the stomacher.
The robe à la française or sacque-back gown was one popular style. It had pleats that flowed from the shoulder into the skirt as well as a tight-fitted bodice with a low square neckline. A less formal version, known as a sacque, was loose in the front and back.
The robe à l’anglaise, also known as a closed-bodied gown, was a more informal style. It had a fitted bodice, lacking the sacque back.
Riding habits or costumes were also popular and consisted of a full skirt and a tight-fitted thigh-length coat similar to men’s fashions. Ladies would often pair them with tricorns or other masculine hats. Wool was the most popular fabric for these garments.
Footwear
The popular shoe of this period was one with a thick heel that was closed with a decorative buckle. Backless mules were also worn at home. Stockings came up above the knee and were held in place by ribbon or woven garters tied below the knee.
Jewelry
Earrings, rings, and bracelets were popular during this time. Necklaces were often worn high on the neck and closed with a ribbon.
Chatelaines were a piece of jewelry either clipped or pinned to the skirt with a series chains ending in clips hanging from it. Various useful items such as needle cases, scissors, mirrors, pencils, thimble cages, and watches were suspended from them.
Make Up
This time period is known for its make up although it wasn’t as clownish as it’s often depicted. In fact, if you look at portraits from the period, women have a beautiful and natural look. Just as in previous centuries, pale skin was prized among the upper and middle classes because it proved a woman wasn’t laboring out in the sun. There were several recipes for foundations, some of which contained harmful ingredients although many did not. Powder was often used over the foundation. Dark eyebrows were popular and burnt cloves were used like a modern eyebrow pencil. Rogue was used on the cheeks and lips. [3]
Hairstyles and Headwear
Hairstyles were still low during the first half of the century. Rolls and buckles, small horizontal rolls commonly seen right above the ears, were popular. For all but the lowest classes, hair was styled using pomatum also known as pomade. Soft pomades provided gentle hold and made hair more manageable. They often had a rendered lard or tallow base. I’ve used soft pomades myself and they are not greasy or smelly. Hard pomades were used when a strong hold was needed and were often solid bars with a beeswax base. The upper classes would also powder their hair to give it the fashionable white or pastel hue. The powder also acted as a dry shampoo.
A variety of headwear was worn although caps were by far the most popular. The working classes would wear plain sturdy versions while the wealthy would flaunt gauzy embellished styles.
Working Class Women
Thanks to fashion magazines, the working classes could follow the styles like never before although they were limited to cheaper fabrics and had to suit their clothing to their work. Their fashions were often simplified versions that dispensed with the impractical panniers and embellishments. The short dress or bedgown, a loose thigh-length garment, was popular. Stays were still an important part of their wardrobe, providing a base to pin their clothing to and acting as a back brace.
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways, please sign up for my email list here.
Let’s get writing!
Copyright © 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1700%E2%80%931750_in_Western_fashion [2] B. Payne, "Women's Costume of the Fifteenth Century", History of Costume: From the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century (1965) [3] Stowell, Lauren and Abby Cox (2019), The American Duchness Guide to 18th Century Beauty. Salem, MA: Page Street Publishing, Co.
The Writer’s Guide to 18th Century Fashion
Posted on March 26, 2021 10 Comments
The 18th century was one of change in society as well as fashion. Dramatic upheavals such as revolutions in France, Haiti, and Britain’s American colonies, all fueled by the Enlightenment, shook up and in some cases shattered the established order. The elaborate court fashions of the early part of the century made way for more informal styles. Fashion magazines made their debut, featuring full-color illustrations and the latest style news.
In this article, I will be providing an overview of the fashions and trends of the century to be followed by more in-depth dives into men’s and women’s fashions.
Once the world goes back to normal, I encourage you to see if there are any 18th century or American Revolutionary War events happening near you. It helps to see these styles “in action” to grasp how they’re worn and the popular silhouettes. Most of the participants have done a large amount of research and make their own garb and would probably be delighted to speak with you.
Baroque and Rococo Style
Baroque was a design aesthetic that flourished in Europe from the early 17th century until the 1740s. It emphasized grandeur, detail, rich color, and contrast to elicit a feel of awe. Besides fashion, it impacted architecture, painting, sculpture, dance, and music. It was a response to the severe and austere styles that typified the tail end of the Renaissance.
Rococo evolved from baroque and took it to new levels of flamboyancy, especially in France and Central Europe. This style lasted into the mid to late 18th century when it ran afoul of the Enlightenment revolutions sweeping the world. [1]
Silhouette
The fashionable silhouette began widening for both men and women from the narrower styles that were in vogue at the end of the previous century. Sleeves and armholes became smaller and more fitted and clothing was designed to pull the shoulders back.
For women, the skirts became wider using bum rolls and false rumps. Panniers, a boned undergarment, created width at the hips and displayed the fabric at the front of the skirt. The width of these paniers increased, especially in the French court under the influence of Marie Antionette, reaching up to three feet (0.9 m) on each side. [2] Stays were an essential support garment for all classes of women and helped to shape the torso into the fashionable V-shaped conical silhouette. [3] They were boned with cane, baleen, or cording and had softer structure than their Victorian descent, the corset. It was common for sleeves to stop at the elbow. If a covering was needed for the forearm, mitts or gloves were worn.
For men, the suit became uniform. It consisted of a coat, waistcoat, and breeches. The styles of suit would vary in fabric and length throughout the century. [4] The tricorn was the most common type of headwear worn during this period. The middle of the century saw the rise of the macaroni, men who took fashion to outrageous and excessive heights and who spoke and acted in an exaggerated and effeminate manner.
The tail end of the century saw the dispensing of the structured formal styles in favor of more informal fashions. Wigs, powder, brocades, and lace were dispensed of. This was directly in response to the French Revolution, after which no one wanted to look like an aristocrat. [5]
John Singleton Copley, 1764, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. Photo source.
Court Dress
For the upper class and nobility, there became a distinct difference between the styles worn at court (full dress) and those casual styles worn every day (undress). [6] The level of richness in clothing was also determined not only by social class but by nationality. The French preferred excessive ornamentation and over-the-top fashions while the English aimed for a more down-to-earth aesthetic. [7]
Hair Styles and Headwear
Probably one of the most iconic fashion elements of this century, the wig was worn by both men and women. They were powdered, often white although pastel colors such as pink and pale blue were used on ladies’ wigs. They were used mostly out of convenience because it was easier to have your servant style your wig into the tall and sometimes outlandish fashions of the day rather than get your hair done every morning. However, there were plenty of people who didn’t wear wigs and just styled their natural hair with pomade and powder. This was especially true of the lower class.
Beginning around 1720, men began wearing their natural hair long and gathered in a club at the nape. Over the century, wigs began to fall out of fashion and then vanished altogether after the French Revolution, never to return. [8]
Men were almost always clean-shaven. It was believed that a hairy face was hiding something and was a relic of the ignorant past.
Women wore a variety of hats throughout the century, including caps, straw hats, bonnets, toques, and lappets. A woman could display her hair fully or hide it almost completely depending on her wish.
Working Class Clothing
More than ever before, the working class was able to keep up with the fashions thanks to magazines and cheaper fabric. Although their clothes were plainer than their upper-class contemporaries. Working class men also tended to wear short jackets and sailors opted for trousers instead of breeches. Wide hats without the brims turned up were also worn.
Working class women favored the short dress or bedgown, a loose-fitting thigh-length garment. Most wore caps to protect their hair from dirt and keep it out of the way, usually topped with a straw hat to shield them from the sun.
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.
Let’s get writing!
Copyright © 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baroque [2] "Panniers [British] (1973.65.2)". In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/1973.65.2 (October 2006). [3] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1750%E2%80%931775_in_Western_fashion [4] Bigelow, Marybelle S. (1979). Fashion in History: Western Dress, Prehistoric to Present. Minneapolis, Minnesota: Burgess Publishing Company. pp. 196. [5] Aaslestad, Katherine B.: "Sitten und Mode: Fashion, Gender, and Public Identities in Hamburg at the Turn of the Nineteenth Century, Gender in Transition: Discourse and Practice in German-Speaking Europe, University of Michigan Press, 2006. [6] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1700%E2%80%931750_in_Western_fashion [7] Ribeiro. The Art of Dress. p. 35. [8] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1700%E2%80%931750_in_Western_fashion#Hairstyles_and_headgear.
The Writer’s Guide to 1550-1600 Men’s Fashion
Posted on March 19, 2021 3 Comments
Although the fashions of the second half of the 16th century were dominated by England’s Elizabeth I, the men of this period were not about to fade into the background. Middle- and upper-class men were peacocks in their own right and dressed to impress and show off their social status and wealth.
Underwear
Just as the previous half of the century, a linen shirt was the base layer worn by every class of men. Of course, the higher up the social ladder a man was the finer the linen and the more elaborate the embroidery.
Hose was still worn on the legs but it was becoming more like stockings than pants. It became more common for hose to not be joined at the crotch or even to come up that far. Almost all men worn some variation of breeches from the rugged and plain ones sported by peasants to the impractical and heavily embellished slops, Venetians and canions worn by the middle and upper classes. [1] Only in Italy did it remain fashionable to wear only hose on the lower body, with the two legs fully sewn together. This style is why actors in productions set in Renaissance Italy, such as Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, wear tights.
Outerwear
The doublet and jerkin were still the standard items worn over the shirt. The fashionable silhouette had moved away from the wide shouldered look of the previous half century, becoming leaner with a V shaped waist.
Middle- and upper-class men took to boning their doublets or wearing a male version of pairs of bodies to suck in the gut and achieve the fashionable flat belly. [2] Although, around 1570, a padded look known as a peascod belly came briefly into fashion. [3] Over time the cod piece shrank back into a convenience flap. Those with wealth used the best fabrics they could afford and lavished an incredible amount of decoration on their clothing. Older men still wore the gown for additional warmth but it was an outdated look and became tied to specific occupations, such as scholars.
Lower class men normally wore their own more practical version of the doublet that was less tailored and often made of homespun fabric. This garment could be sleeveless or have sleeves, which were often laced in and thus removable.
All social classes wore long cloaks with hoods in bad weather. Upper class men would also wear short capes, often richly trimmed or lined in fur.
Shoes were low and flat with boots being worn for hunting and riding.
Ruffs
Men also jumped on the ruff fashion and delighted in embellishing them as much as the ladies. Starting as a modest ruffle at the neckband of a chemise or partlet, the ruff became a separate garment and eventually grew to an enormous circumference that needed wire and starch to keep its shape.
Hair and Headwear
Hair was mostly short during this period although longer styles became popular in the 1580’s. In the 1590’s, the fashion among young men was a lovelock, one long section of hair hanging over the shoulder.
Where men really went crazy was with beards. All shapes and sizes were popular with the fashions changing often. [4]
A variety of hats were worn. The flat cap was still in style for all social classes. Tall hats and riding hats became popular among the middle and upper classes and were usually highly decorated and bejeweled. [5]
Jewelry
A variety of jewelry was still extremely popular including pins, rings, earrings, and brooches. It became the style during the second half of the century to cut slits in the knuckles of gloves so the rings underneath could be seen. [6]
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.
Let’s get writing!
Copyright © 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
[1] Winter, Janet & Cayolyn Savoy: Elizabethan Costuming for the Years 1550-1580, Other Times Publications, 1979. [2] Vincent, Susan (2009). The Anatomy of Fashion: Dressing the Body from the Renaissance to Today. Berg. p. 49. ISBN 9781845207632. [3] Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion: the cut and construction of clothes for men and women 1560–1620, Macmillan 1985. Revised edition 1986. (ISBN 0-89676-083-9) [4] Cunnington, C. Willett; Phillis Cunnington; Charles Beard (1960). A Dictionary of English Costume. London: Adam & Charles Black LTD. [5] Tortora (1994), p. 167 [6] Cunnington, C. Willett; Phillis Cunnington and Charles Beard (1960). A Dictionary of English Costume. London: Adam & Charles Black.
The Writer’s Guide to 1500-1550 Men’s Fashion
Posted on March 12, 2021 9 Comments
As I mentioned in my article on early 16th century women’s clothing, fashion of the first half of the period was dominated by male trend-setters including Henry VIII, Francis I and Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. Almost everyone can picture the famous portrait of Henry VIII wearing a slashed and embroidered doublet and a fur-lined overgown. Today we will be diving into this fashions in greater depth.
Once the world goes back to normal, I highly recommend visiting your local Renaissance faire and asking the participants about their clothing. Most have done an incredible amount of research and many make their garb themselves.
Underwear
A linen shirt with full sleeves was the base layer worn by all social classes, the quality of the fabric determined by what the wearer could afford. The full body of the shirt was often gathered into the neck with upper classes having ruffles or box pleats at neck and wrist. Occasionally, the shirts would be embroidered. The main job of the shirt was act as a barrier between the body with its sweat, oils, and dirt and the outer clothing.
The braies worn in earlier periods disappeared. Instead, men would tuck the ends of their shirts around their crotch. Underwear (briefs, drawers, smallclothes, etc.) would not reappear until the 19th century.
Outerwear
Over the shirt was worn a doublet and over that was worn a jerkin, which was cut low to show off the doublet. Hose was worn on the legs and could be two separate pieces usually held up with garters or joined at the crotch. Over the hose was sometimes worn breeches, fitted pants that ended just below the knee. An overgown could be worn on top of the jerkin for extra warmth. Originally ankle-length, this garment gradually shorted to knee-length. Shoes were normally low and flat although boots were worn for riding and hunting.
Starting in the 1530’s, the fashionable silhouette began to narrow under the Spanish influence, doing away with the shoulder padding and adopting higher tighter collars, jerkins that buttoned to the neck with shorter skirts, and fuller doublet sleeves. [1]
Lower-class men were still wearing the cotehardie or cotte of the previous century. If they could afford to follow the fashions, they would wear a doublet made of cheaper fabric with fewer embellishments. They would also have a bagger simpler version of breeches and hose or long pants known as trews.
In bad weather, a cloak would be worn over everything.
Codpiece
The codpiece is a historical fashion oddity and one that leads to stares if seen in portraits or at the local Renaissance faire. Starting off as a convenient crotch flap, it evolved into a padded phallic fashion statement. Basically, think of it as the men’s equivalent of the padded bra.
National Dress
There were variations in men’s fashions from country to country that mirrored those in women’s clothing. The Spanish style was somber and mostly black. The German style was colorful, flamboyant, and usually had a lot of slashing, a trend that was inspired by the mended clothing of soldiers after the 1477 Swiss victory over the Duke of Burgundy. [2]
Headwear and Hair
Hair was usually kept short and men were either clean-shaven or had trimmed facial hair.
Several styles of hats were popular through the first half of the century including the German barett and its variations. Later the flat hat or cap came into style.
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.
Let’s get writing!
Copyright © 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
[1] Kybalová, et al.: Pictorial Encyclopedia of Fashion [2] Wilcox, R. Turner (1958). The Mode in Costume. New York, NY: Charles Scribner's Sons. p. 77. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1500%E2%80%931550_in_Western_European_fashion#Men's_fashion
The Writer’s Guide to 1550-1600 Women’s Fashion
Posted on March 5, 2021 6 Comments
While the fashion of the first half of the 16th century was dominated by men such as England’s Henry VIII, France’s Francis I and the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V, the styles of the second half of the century were dictated by one woman: England’s Elizabeth I. She set the standard for most of Europe and many women scrambled to follow the fashion trends that she started.
Underwear
Just as in the first half of the century, a linen chemise was the first layer worn by all classes of women. The upper class started having their chemises embroidered in keeping with the over-the-top luxury of the time, usually with blackwork, and added lace at the edges. A high-necked version of the chemise was worn under the new high-necked fashions to protect the outer clothing from dirt, oil, and sweat. The partlet continued to be worn to fill in the necklines of dresses.
It appears the only women to wear drawers were Venetian courtesans. [1] Stockings covered the lower legs and were secured with ribbon or woven garters below or above the knee.
The pair of bodies that was introduced earlier in the century was worn across social classes although the boned kirtle was still popular. Lower class women would usually lightly bone their bodices, which were worn as an outer garment.
The use of the Spanish farthingale became more widespread among the upper classes, allowing for the widening of the skirts as the century progressed. By the end of the century, the fashion had become the wheel farthingale, which produced a drum shape. In France, women used a bum roll, a crescent-shaped pad tied around the waist, instead of the farthingale. In England, women wore both. [2] The bum roll played the important part in supporting the heavy skirts and keeping the weight from resting on the lower back. I will say from personal experience, wearing a bum roll made a big different to the amount of strain I felt.
Photo source.
Outerwear
Frocks or gowns of various styles were worn during this period. A decorated underskirt was usually worn over a farthingale and petticoat. The outer skirt would be split to show it off. A bodice, usually tightly fitted, would be worn over the pair of bodies. Decorative sleeves would be laced in at the armhole and could be easily changed. The shoulders were decorated with epaulets, tabs, or shoulder rolls. The upper classes would go in for lavish embellishment. Middle class women would try to emulate the fashion but would go for a narrower farthingale and usually had to sacrifice on fabric and trim.
The lower-class woman would usually wear at least two skirts over her chemise with the best and newest worn on top and tucked into the belt to keep it clean. Over that she would commonly wear an apron. Her bodice would be worn over the chemise and would be lightly boned to provide structure and support. Sleeves could be laced in at the shoulders for added warmth. [3]
Cloaks were worn by all social classes as an outer layer to protect against the weather and the dirt of traveling.
Jewelry was worn in profusion by the elite including jeweled belts, rings, brooches, necklaces, and earrings. The middle and lower classes wore what jewelry they could afford such as pewter pendants.
Ruffs
Probably the most distinctive and wackiest fashion statement of this half century was the ruff. Starting as a modest ruffle at the neckband of a chemise or partlet, the ruff became a separate garment and eventually grew to an enormous circumference that needed wire and starch to keep its shape. Of course, it was just another piece to be bedecked with embellishment such as lace, cutwork, or embroidery. [4]
National Dress
Although fashion of this period is dominated by the English and Spanish courts, there were other parts of Europe that stuck with their unique fashion. Germany continued with their colorful styles. Italy never really got on the farthingale train, instead keeping a slimmer silhouette.
Headwear
The most popular hairstyle was curling or teasing the front of the hair and braiding or coiling the back and pining it up. Wigs and hairpieces were used to achieve the fashionable look. Married women would at least partially cover their hair just as in previous centuries. Blonde was still a trendy color but red skyrocketed in popularity with the ascendence of the redheaded Queen Elizabeth.
The French hood was still fashionable as were several styles of riding hats and cauls. [5]
Make-up
The make-up used in the second half of the century was almost identical to that used in the first half. The beauty ideal was pale skin, red lips and cheeks and dark eyelashes and eyebrows, usually achieved with the use of kohl. [6] Fair skin was a status symbol because it showed a woman didn’t have to work out in the sun. For the working-class woman who did have to work in the sun, she still tried with whatever she had on hand.
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.
Let’s get writing!
Copyright © 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
[1] Ashelford, Jane: The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500–1914, Abrams, 1996. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1550%E2%80%931600_in_Western_European_fashion#cite_ref-Art_2-0 [2] Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion: the cut and construction of clothes for men and women 1560–1620, Macmillan 1985. Revised edition 1986. (ISBN 0-89676-083-9). [3] Winter, Janet & Cayolyn Savoy: Elizabethan Costuming for the Years 1550-1580, Other Times Publications, 1979. [4] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1550%E2%80%931600_in_Western_European_fashion [5] Köhler, History of Costume. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1550%E2%80%931600_in_Western_European_fashion#cite_ref-34 [6] "Beauty History: The Elizabethan Era". Beautiful With Brains. Archived from the original on 13 February 2015. Retrieved 12 February 2015.
The Writer’s Guide to 1500-1550 Women’s Fashion
Posted on February 26, 2021 10 Comments
Today I will be take a closer look at the styles women were wearing in Europe during the first half of the 16th century. Most of the trendsetters were men such as England’s Henry VIII, France’s Francis I, and the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V.
If you want the basics of 16th century fashion please check out my previous post, The Writer’s Guide to 16th Century Fashion.
Underwear
The base layer for all social classes was still the linen chemise with full long sleeves. The style of the upper class was to gather the volume into a neckband, often with a ruffle. Over this was worn the kirtle but it was changed from the previous century with the addition of boning in the torso that provided support and a smooth silhouette for the gown to go over. It also had the addition of a waist seam, allowing for a fuller skirt. Stockings were worn, kept up by a ribbon or woven garter tied below the knee, and shoes were flat.
Starting in the 1530’s, the pair of bodies was introduced. It was a garment usually boned with reed, the ancestor of the 18th century stays and 19th century corset. It laced in the front and back, which is why it’s called a pair since there were two pieces.
National Dress
German fashions were colorful with large amounts of embellishment. The dresses were low cut and open fronted, lacing over the kirtle. The skirts were later decorated with bands of contrasting fabric, which was often embellished or slashed.
The style of Holland, Belgium, Flanders, and Italy retained the high waisted silhouette of the previous century.
The Spanish style was austere and heavily used black and was also increasingly using the Spanish farthingale, a boned skirt that was the ancestor of the hoop skirt. This style displayed the front of the kirtle, which was heavily decorated. Later, an under skirt would replace the kirtle as the pair of bodies came into use. The portion that would be seen in the front was embellished heavily while the rest of the skirt hidden under the outer skirt was left plain as a cost-saving measure.
The English and French fashions began following the Spanish lead, adopting the farthingale. These gowns often had a low square neckline, usually filled in with the chemise or a partlet, a small garment that covered only the chest and shoulders. The English favored wide turned-back sleeves, a fashion that is heavily linked with Anne Boleyn. [1]
Headwear and Hair Styles
French hoods, a stiff arched hat that sat back on the head with a veil draping from it, were the most popular headdresses among the upper class although the gable hood was worn frequently in England. However, there were a variety of other styles such as the German barett and cauls, made of a netted cord over a silk lining gathering into a headband. In warmer climates, such as Italy and Spain, hair was worn uncovered and often twisted or braided up in elaborate styles.
To achieve the fashionable light hair, women would apply a mixture of lemon juice, alum, and white wine to their hair and sit in the sun. They would curl it by saturating it with gum Arabic or beer and wrapping it around clay curlers. [2]
Make-Up and Jewelry
Cosmetics were used by upper class women to achieve the beauty ideal of pale unblemished skin, red lips, and light-colored hair. Some of the substances used to whiten the skin were toxic such as mercury, alum, and ceruse (derived from lead) but nontoxic alternatives did exist with ingredients such as olive oil, lemon juice, eggs, and rosewater. Red pigment for the lips and cheeks was achieved by vermilion, a mixture of ceruse and henna and cochineal (a powder of insect shells).
Jewelry for the upper class was sumptuous and elaborate and included necklaces, rings, pins, brooches, earrings, and bracelets.
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.
Let’s get writing!
Copyright © 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1500%E2%80%931550_in_Western_European_fashion [2] Ribeiro, Aileen (2011). Facing Beauty: Painted Women & Cosmetic Art. New Haven and London: Yale University Press. pp. 60–124.
The Writer’s Guide to 16th Century Fashion
Posted on February 19, 2021 6 Comments
The 16th century was the second half of the Renaissance, a dynamic and changing period of European history. The focus of scholarship and art shifted from the religious to the secular. However, the church still had tremendous influence on people’s lives and some of the most astounding works of religious art were created during this period. An increase in trade made more fabrics available and spread production techniques. Fashions became more regional, making it possible to tell a person’s nationality by their dress.
For this blog I will be covering the basics of 16th century fashion then diving into depth about women’s and men’s styles in upcoming articles. If you want to learn more about the fashions of the first half of the Renaissance, please check out my last post on the 15th century (which you can find here).
Once the world goes back to normal, I highly recommend visiting your local Renaissance faire and asking the participants about their clothing. Most have done an incredible amount of research and many make their garb themselves.
Overview
Fashion in the first half of the 16th century was dominated by several monarchs fighting to outdo each other, including England’s Henry VIII, France’s Francis I, and the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. The most famous example of this one-upmanship was the 1520 Field of the Cloth of Gold, a sumptuous royal summit that lasted for 17 days. [1] The fashions of second half of the century were led by England’s Elizabeth I.
The styles were typified by opulence. Clothing was constructed of multiple contrasting fabrics and bedecked with embroidery, jewels, slashing, and trim. Silks, brocades, and velvets were worn by those who could afford them. The lower and middle classes wore varying qualities of wool and linen. Cotton was extremely expensive during this time and not widely available.
The Spanish court did provide a bit of a counterpoint to the growing sumptuousness of the fashion trends of the rest of Europe. They favored a rigid severe style that heavily used black. They were basically the goths of the late Renaissance. Black was an expensive color because it was difficult to produce and it faded quickly. [2] It became the standard for formal clothing. Despite the monochromatic color, the clothing was often still ornate, made of rich fabrics and heavily embellished.
Silhouette
The silhouette of female fashion began to widen at the beginning of the century from the slim lines of the Middle Ages. The clothing also became more voluminous to provide more warm layers against the cooling temperatures of the Little Ice Age. The desired silhouette of the second half of the century was a V-shaped torso with width in the shoulders and hips, an optical illusion that made the waist look as small as possible.
The popular silhouette for men started long and lean but over the decades broad square shoulders became popular, achieved by using wide collars, pads, and large sleeves. Shapely calves were also all the rage.
Court Dress
Great value was put in displaying wealth through sumptuous clothing. Nobles, especially those who spent most of their time at court, would spend opulent sums of money to keep up appearances and outdo each other, vying to catch the eye of their monarch and earn their favor. Many went into debt to do so and several financially ruined their families.
Middle- and Lower-Class Clothing
The contrast between social classes became more pronounced. The lower and middle classes could not keep up with the nobility but they still tried to follow the fashion trends although with cheaper fabric, less embellishment and by excluding the impractical elements. Their clothing was less elaborate with fewer embellishments and made of cheaper fabric with a focus on durability and practicality.
Working class women would forgo the wide skirt supports because they were impractical but still follow the rest of the silhouette. They would also skip the pair of bodices, instead opting to bone their bodices.
They were also limited by the sumptuary laws, a series of regulations that outlined what a person could or could not wear based on their social standing. These laws could be skirted by paying a fine although they were also widely ignored.
Regional Styles
Regional styles continued and were distinct from each other, although a crossover of fashions happened throughout Europe. For example, Queen Elizabeth’s wardrobe included bodices and sleeves in the French, Dutch, Italian, Polish and Spanish styles. [3]
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.
Let’s get writing!
Copyright © 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
[1] Ashelford, Jane: Visual History of Dress in the Sixteenth Century, introduction [2] Mikhaila, Ninya; Malcolm-Davies, Jane (2006). The Tudor tailor: Reconstructing 16th-century dress. London: Batsford. p. 20. ISBN 978-0713489859. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1550%E2%80%931600_in_Western_European_fashion#cite_ref-Tudor20_20-4 [3] Arnold, Janet: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, W S Maney and Son Ltd, Leeds 1988. ISBN 0-901286-20-6.
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