The Writerโs Guide to 1500-1550 Menโs Fashion
Posted on March 12, 2021 9 Comments
As I mentioned in my article on early 16th century womenโs clothing, fashion of the first half of the period was dominated by male trend-setters including Henry VIII, Francis I and Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. Almost everyone can picture the famous portrait of Henry VIII wearing a slashed and embroidered doublet and a fur-lined overgown. Today we will be diving into this fashions in greater depth.
Once the world goes back to normal, I highly recommend visiting your local Renaissance faire and asking the participants about their clothing. Most have done an incredible amount of research and many make their garb themselves.
Underwear
A linen shirt with full sleeves was the base layer worn by all social classes, the quality of the fabric determined by what the wearer could afford. The full body of the shirt was often gathered into the neck with upper classes having ruffles or box pleats at neck and wrist. Occasionally, the shirts would be embroidered. The main job of the shirt was act as a barrier between the body with its sweat, oils, and dirt and the outer clothing.
The braies worn in earlier periods disappeared. Instead, men would tuck the ends of their shirts around their crotch. Underwear (briefs, drawers, smallclothes, etc.) would not reappear until the 19th century.
Outerwear
Over the shirt was worn a doublet and over that was worn a jerkin, which was cut low to show off the doublet. Hose was worn on the legs and could be two separate pieces usually held up with garters or joined at the crotch. Over the hose was sometimes worn breeches, fitted pants that ended just below the knee. An overgown could be worn on top of the jerkin for extra warmth. Originally ankle-length, this garment gradually shorted to knee-length. Shoes were normally low and flat although boots were worn for riding and hunting.
Starting in the 1530โs, the fashionable silhouette began to narrow under the Spanish influence, doing away with the shoulder padding and adopting higher tighter collars, jerkins that buttoned to the neck with shorter skirts, and fuller doublet sleeves. [1]
Lower-class men were still wearing the cotehardie or cotte of the previous century. If they could afford to follow the fashions, they would wear a doublet made of cheaper fabric with fewer embellishments. They would also have a bagger simpler version of breeches and hose or long pants known as trews.
In bad weather, a cloak would be worn over everything.
Codpiece
The codpiece is a historical fashion oddity and one that leads to stares if seen in portraits or at the local Renaissance faire. Starting off as a convenient crotch flap, it evolved into a padded phallic fashion statement. Basically, think of it as the menโs equivalent of the padded bra.
National Dress
There were variations in menโs fashions from country to country that mirrored those in womenโs clothing. The Spanish style was somber and mostly black. The German style was colorful, flamboyant, and usually had a lot of slashing, a trend that was inspired by the mended clothing of soldiers after the 1477 Swiss victory over the Duke of Burgundy. [2]
Headwear and Hair
Hair was usually kept short and men were either clean-shaven or had trimmed facial hair.
Several styles of hats were popular through the first half of the century including the German barett and its variations. Later the flat hat or cap came into style.
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.
Letโs get writing!
Copyright ยฉ 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
[1] Kybalovรก, et al.: Pictorial Encyclopedia of Fashion [2] Wilcox, R. Turner (1958). The Mode in Costume. New York, NY: Charles Scribner's Sons. p. 77. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1500%E2%80%931550_in_Western_European_fashion#Men's_fashion
The Writerโs Guide to 1550-1600 Womenโs Fashion
Posted on March 5, 2021 6 Comments
While the fashion of the first half of the 16th century was dominated by men such as Englandโs Henry VIII, Franceโs Francis I and the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V, the styles of the second half of the century were dictated by one woman: Englandโs Elizabeth I. She set the standard for most of Europe and many women scrambled to follow the fashion trends that she started.
Underwear
Just as in the first half of the century, a linen chemise was the first layer worn by all classes of women. The upper class started having their chemises embroidered in keeping with the over-the-top luxury of the time, usually with blackwork, and added lace at the edges. A high-necked version of the chemise was worn under the new high-necked fashions to protect the outer clothing from dirt, oil, and sweat. The partlet continued to be worn to fill in the necklines of dresses.
It appears the only women to wear drawers were Venetian courtesans. [1] Stockings covered the lower legs and were secured with ribbon or woven garters below or above the knee.
The pair of bodies that was introduced earlier in the century was worn across social classes although the boned kirtle was still popular. Lower class women would usually lightly bone their bodices, which were worn as an outer garment.
The use of the Spanish farthingale became more widespread among the upper classes, allowing for the widening of the skirts as the century progressed. By the end of the century, the fashion had become the wheel farthingale, which produced a drum shape. In France, women used a bum roll, a crescent-shaped pad tied around the waist, instead of the farthingale. In England, women wore both. [2] The bum roll played the important part in supporting the heavy skirts and keeping the weight from resting on the lower back. I will say from personal experience, wearing a bum roll made a big different to the amount of strain I felt.
Photo source.
Outerwear
Frocks or gowns of various styles were worn during this period. A decorated underskirt was usually worn over a farthingale and petticoat. The outer skirt would be split to show it off. A bodice, usually tightly fitted, would be worn over the pair of bodies. Decorative sleeves would be laced in at the armhole and could be easily changed. The shoulders were decorated with epaulets, tabs, or shoulder rolls. The upper classes would go in for lavish embellishment. Middle class women would try to emulate the fashion but would go for a narrower farthingale and usually had to sacrifice on fabric and trim.
The lower-class woman would usually wear at least two skirts over her chemise with the best and newest worn on top and tucked into the belt to keep it clean. Over that she would commonly wear an apron. Her bodice would be worn over the chemise and would be lightly boned to provide structure and support. Sleeves could be laced in at the shoulders for added warmth. [3]
Cloaks were worn by all social classes as an outer layer to protect against the weather and the dirt of traveling.
Jewelry was worn in profusion by the elite including jeweled belts, rings, brooches, necklaces, and earrings. The middle and lower classes wore what jewelry they could afford such as pewter pendants.
Ruffs
Probably the most distinctive and wackiest fashion statement of this half century was the ruff. Starting as a modest ruffle at the neckband of a chemise or partlet, the ruff became a separate garment and eventually grew to an enormous circumference that needed wire and starch to keep its shape. Of course, it was just another piece to be bedecked with embellishment such as lace, cutwork, or embroidery. [4]
National Dress
Although fashion of this period is dominated by the English and Spanish courts, there were other parts of Europe that stuck with their unique fashion. Germany continued with their colorful styles. Italy never really got on the farthingale train, instead keeping a slimmer silhouette.
Headwear
The most popular hairstyle was curling or teasing the front of the hair and braiding or coiling the back and pining it up. Wigs and hairpieces were used to achieve the fashionable look. Married women would at least partially cover their hair just as in previous centuries. Blonde was still a trendy color but red skyrocketed in popularity with the ascendence of the redheaded Queen Elizabeth.
The French hood was still fashionable as were several styles of riding hats and cauls. [5]
Make-up
The make-up used in the second half of the century was almost identical to that used in the first half. The beauty ideal was pale skin, red lips and cheeks and dark eyelashes and eyebrows, usually achieved with the use of kohl. [6] Fair skin was a status symbol because it showed a woman didnโt have to work out in the sun. For the working-class woman who did have to work in the sun, she still tried with whatever she had on hand.
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.
Letโs get writing!
Copyright ยฉ 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
[1] Ashelford, Jane: The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500โ1914, Abrams, 1996. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1550%E2%80%931600_in_Western_European_fashion#cite_ref-Art_2-0 [2] Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion: the cut and construction of clothes for men and women 1560โ1620, Macmillan 1985. Revised edition 1986. (ISBN 0-89676-083-9). [3] Winter, Janet & Cayolyn Savoy: Elizabethan Costuming for the Years 1550-1580, Other Times Publications, 1979. [4] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1550%E2%80%931600_in_Western_European_fashion [5] Kรถhler, History of Costume. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1550%E2%80%931600_in_Western_European_fashion#cite_ref-34 [6] "Beauty History: The Elizabethan Era". Beautiful With Brains. Archived from the original on 13 February 2015. Retrieved 12 February 2015.
The Writerโs Guide to 1500-1550 Womenโs Fashion
Posted on February 26, 2021 10 Comments
Today I will be take a closer look at the styles women were wearing in Europe during the first half of the 16th century. Most of the trendsetters were men such as Englandโs Henry VIII, Franceโs Francis I, and the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V.
If you want the basics of 16th century fashion please check out my previous post, The Writerโs Guide to 16th Century Fashion.
Underwear
The base layer for all social classes was still the linen chemise with full long sleeves. The style of the upper class was to gather the volume into a neckband, often with a ruffle. Over this was worn the kirtle but it was changed from the previous century with the addition of boning in the torso that provided support and a smooth silhouette for the gown to go over. It also had the addition of a waist seam, allowing for a fuller skirt. Stockings were worn, kept up by a ribbon or woven garter tied below the knee, and shoes were flat.
Starting in the 1530โs, the pair of bodies was introduced. It was a garment usually boned with reed, the ancestor of the 18th century stays and 19th century corset. It laced in the front and back, which is why itโs called a pair since there were two pieces.
National Dress
German fashions were colorful with large amounts of embellishment. The dresses were low cut and open fronted, lacing over the kirtle. The skirts were later decorated with bands of contrasting fabric, which was often embellished or slashed.
The style of Holland, Belgium, Flanders, and Italy retained the high waisted silhouette of the previous century.
The Spanish style was austere and heavily used black and was also increasingly using the Spanish farthingale, a boned skirt that was the ancestor of the hoop skirt. This style displayed the front of the kirtle, which was heavily decorated. Later, an under skirt would replace the kirtle as the pair of bodies came into use. The portion that would be seen in the front was embellished heavily while the rest of the skirt hidden under the outer skirt was left plain as a cost-saving measure.
The English and French fashions began following the Spanish lead, adopting the farthingale. These gowns often had a low square neckline, usually filled in with the chemise or a partlet, a small garment that covered only the chest and shoulders. The English favored wide turned-back sleeves, a fashion that is heavily linked with Anne Boleyn. [1]
Headwear and Hair Styles
French hoods, a stiff arched hat that sat back on the head with a veil draping from it, were the most popular headdresses among the upper class although the gable hood was worn frequently in England. However, there were a variety of other styles such as the German barett and cauls, made of a netted cord over a silk lining gathering into a headband. In warmer climates, such as Italy and Spain, hair was worn uncovered and often twisted or braided up in elaborate styles.
To achieve the fashionable light hair, women would apply a mixture of lemon juice, alum, and white wine to their hair and sit in the sun. They would curl it by saturating it with gum Arabic or beer and wrapping it around clay curlers. [2]
Make-Up and Jewelry
Cosmetics were used by upper class women to achieve the beauty ideal of pale unblemished skin, red lips, and light-colored hair. Some of the substances used to whiten the skin were toxic such as mercury, alum, and ceruse (derived from lead) but nontoxic alternatives did exist with ingredients such as olive oil, lemon juice, eggs, and rosewater. Red pigment for the lips and cheeks was achieved by vermilion, a mixture of ceruse and henna and cochineal (a powder of insect shells).
Jewelry for the upper class was sumptuous and elaborate and included necklaces, rings, pins, brooches, earrings, and bracelets.
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.
Letโs get writing!
Copyright ยฉ 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1500%E2%80%931550_in_Western_European_fashion [2] Ribeiro, Aileen (2011). Facing Beauty: Painted Women & Cosmetic Art. New Haven and London: Yale University Press. pp. 60โ124.
The Writerโs Guide to 16th Century Fashion
Posted on February 19, 2021 6 Comments
The 16th century was the second half of the Renaissance, a dynamic and changing period of European history. The focus of scholarship and art shifted from the religious to the secular. However, the church still had tremendous influence on peopleโs lives and some of the most astounding works of religious art were created during this period. An increase in trade made more fabrics available and spread production techniques. Fashions became more regional, making it possible to tell a personโs nationality by their dress.
For this blog I will be covering the basics of 16th century fashion then diving into depth about womenโs and menโs styles in upcoming articles. If you want to learn more about the fashions of the first half of the Renaissance, please check out my last post on the 15th century (which you can find here).
Once the world goes back to normal, I highly recommend visiting your local Renaissance faire and asking the participants about their clothing. Most have done an incredible amount of research and many make their garb themselves.
Overview
Fashion in the first half of the 16th century was dominated by several monarchs fighting to outdo each other, including Englandโs Henry VIII, Franceโs Francis I, and the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. The most famous example of this one-upmanship was the 1520 Field of the Cloth of Gold, a sumptuous royal summit that lasted for 17 days. [1] The fashions of second half of the century were led by Englandโs Elizabeth I.
The styles were typified by opulence. Clothing was constructed of multiple contrasting fabrics and bedecked with embroidery, jewels, slashing, and trim. Silks, brocades, and velvets were worn by those who could afford them. The lower and middle classes wore varying qualities of wool and linen. Cotton was extremely expensive during this time and not widely available.
The Spanish court did provide a bit of a counterpoint to the growing sumptuousness of the fashion trends of the rest of Europe. They favored a rigid severe style that heavily used black. They were basically the goths of the late Renaissance. Black was an expensive color because it was difficult to produce and it faded quickly. [2] It became the standard for formal clothing. Despite the monochromatic color, the clothing was often still ornate, made of rich fabrics and heavily embellished.
Silhouette
The silhouette of female fashion began to widen at the beginning of the century from the slim lines of the Middle Ages. The clothing also became more voluminous to provide more warm layers against the cooling temperatures of the Little Ice Age. The desired silhouette of the second half of the century was a V-shaped torso with width in the shoulders and hips, an optical illusion that made the waist look as small as possible.
The popular silhouette for men started long and lean but over the decades broad square shoulders became popular, achieved by using wide collars, pads, and large sleeves. Shapely calves were also all the rage.
Court Dress
Great value was put in displaying wealth through sumptuous clothing. Nobles, especially those who spent most of their time at court, would spend opulent sums of money to keep up appearances and outdo each other, vying to catch the eye of their monarch and earn their favor. Many went into debt to do so and several financially ruined their families.
Middle- and Lower-Class Clothing
The contrast between social classes became more pronounced. The lower and middle classes could not keep up with the nobility but they still tried to follow the fashion trends although with cheaper fabric, less embellishment and by excluding the impractical elements. Their clothing was less elaborate with fewer embellishments and made of cheaper fabric with a focus on durability and practicality.
Working class women would forgo the wide skirt supports because they were impractical but still follow the rest of the silhouette. They would also skip the pair of bodices, instead opting to bone their bodices.
They were also limited by the sumptuary laws, a series of regulations that outlined what a person could or could not wear based on their social standing. These laws could be skirted by paying a fine although they were also widely ignored.
Regional Styles
Regional styles continued and were distinct from each other, although a crossover of fashions happened throughout Europe. For example, Queen Elizabethโs wardrobe included bodices and sleeves in the French, Dutch, Italian, Polish and Spanish styles. [3]
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.
Letโs get writing!
Copyright ยฉ 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
[1] Ashelford, Jane: Visual History of Dress in the Sixteenth Century, introduction [2] Mikhaila, Ninya; Malcolm-Davies, Jane (2006). The Tudor tailor: Reconstructing 16th-century dress. London: Batsford. p. 20. ISBN 978-0713489859. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1550%E2%80%931600_in_Western_European_fashion#cite_ref-Tudor20_20-4 [3] Arnold, Janet: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, W S Maney and Son Ltd, Leeds 1988. ISBN 0-901286-20-6.
The Writerโs Guide to 15th Century Fashion
Posted on February 12, 2021 13 Comments
Just like the 12th century, the 15th century contains many fashion elements that will be familiar to readers and viewers of fantasy and fairy tale adaptations. Fashion was changing during this century and varied in significant ways from the styles of the centuries that proceeded it. It also saw the introduction of several iconic styles of headwear that are still used in fantasy today.
15th Century Fashion
The idea of โfashionโ really started coalescing during this century and as fashion trends came and went for the first time wearing โout of dateโ clothing became a real problem. [1] Europe was also becoming more prosperous, leading to more and more complex clothing styles and expensive fabrics. This prosperity also meant that lower-class people had more money to spend on their clothing and could follow the fashion trends. The variations of clothing between nations became more pronounced, making it possible by the end of the century to look at a personโs style of dress and determine whether they were from England or Italy or Germany.
With England and France too busy with the Hundred Yearโs War to focus on fashion, the Duchy of Burgundy became the style worldโs beating heart. Its fashion-conscious ruler, Phillip the Good, had access to the finest and most fashionable fabrics from both East and West, from English wool to Italian silks to furs. Wool could be dyed in a rainbow of sumptuous colors and Mediterranean silk-weavers could produce richly detailed designs and opulent silk velvets.
One fashion trend that took hold was slashing. The outer garment was cut, often in a decorative pattern, to reveal the undergarment or lining. It allowed for incredibly colorful outfits. The Germany Landsknechts took the trend to often outrageous extremes.
The houppelande was a popular style that had variations for both men and women. It was a voluminous outer garment, usually floor-length, with large hanging sleeves. The edges were often dagged or cut in a decorative pattern. Appearing in the 1360โs, it stayed popular for over a century. [2]
Menโs Fashion
Men were still wearing the linen shirts and tailored hose from the previous centuries although the shirts had become shorter with changing fashions. The most popular outer garment worn during this time period was the cotehardie, a fitted coat-like garment that buttoned up the front. It usually had long sleeves and a โskirtโ that extended to the knees. Over time, the cotehardie evolved into the doublet, with the skirt length shortening until it disappeared altogether. The doubletโs sleeves were often full. If another layer was worn, it was the houppelande.
Various hats were popular based on location and social status. The chaperon remained stylish from the 12th century and there were multiple styles ranging from tall to low crowned and wide brimmed to brimless. [3]
Womenโs Fashion
The most common womanโs garment was the kirtle, a snug-fitted ankle-length garment that was worn by all social classes over a long-sleeved linen chemise. The sleeves could be short or long and were sometimes detachable. This style was also sometimes called a cotehardie but the fashion began to fade in favor of the houppelande, which was popular to the middle of the century. [3] The Burgundian gown was also a popular style of dress with a V-shaped neckline that displayed the kirtle worn beneath, long sleeves, and a full skirt.
Italy developed its own styles such as the sleeveless overdress known as the cioppa, a lightweight underdress called a cotta and a sideless overdress known as a giornea. [4] The Spanish developed the verdugada, a gown with a bell-shaped hoop skirt stiffened by reed. This was the beginning of the Spanish farthingale, which would have a big impact on fashion going into the Renaissance.
Womenโs hats during this time period were crazy. They include the fairy-tale famous hennin, a cone that extended from the back of the head often ending in or was covered by a veil. There were several versions of the hennin, some with two shorter horns. [5] This style is worn by Madame Vivienne in Dragon Age: Inquisition although she has disposed of the veil. Other styles used various padded or wired shapes covered by veils. In warmer countries, such as Italy, it was acceptable for even married women to wear their hair only covered by a sheer veil or cap. {6}
Footwear
Footwear consisted of laced ankle boots but later into the century, poulaines became popular. They sported long toes that could reach ridiculous lengths. To protect their shoes from dirt and mud, middle- and upper-class ladies would wear pattens, which are similar to wooden platform sandals.
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.
Letโs get writing!
Copyright ยฉ 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
[1] Wilson, Elizabeth (1985). Adorned in Dreams. New York, NY: I.B. Tauris. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_European_fashion#cite_ref-2 [2] Laver, Concise History of Costume and Fashion. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Houppelande#cite_ref-1 [3] Laver, Concise History of Costume and Fashion. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_European_fashion#cite_ref-Laver_33-1 [4] Payne, Blanche: History of Costume from the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century, Harper & Row, 1965. [5] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hennin [6] Payne, Blanche: History of Costume from the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century, Harper & Row, 1965.
The Writerโs Guide to 12th Century Fashion
Posted on February 5, 2021 49 Comments
People seem fascinated by the European Middle Ages and it is a popular period for fantasy authors to draw upon. Part of that fascination rests on the clothing, the image of ladies in elegant flowing gowns with long sleeves, of knights in dashing doublets. However, the Middle Ages is a massive chunk of history, spanning from the 5th to the 15th century. Thatโs a thousand years of fashion! Plus, there was a lot of variations in style across regions. Today Iโm going to be focusing on the 12th century and giving you the basics of menโs and womenโs clothing during this century.
12th Century Fashion
When most people think of medieval European fashion what they often picture, usually without knowing it, is the 12th century. Long flowing garments with wide bell-shaped sleeves were in fashion for both men and women. Most of the fashions of the previous centuries had been loose-fitting and comprised mainly of square or rectangular shapes to prevent fabric wastage. However, with the growing use of lacing, clothing became more fitted through the waist, starting first with the upper classes.
The bliaut (pronounced bliหหoส) was a French fashion with variations for men and women. It was characterized by sleeves that were fitted to the elbow then flared into a bell or trumpet shape, a skirt that flared at the hips, and was moderate to tightly fitted through the torso depending on the time period. It was common for the edges to have a decorative pattern called dagging. The bliaut was popular from the 11th to the 13th century. [1]
Menโs Fashion
Generally, men wore a knee or ankle-length tunic over a long-sleeved linen shirt and tailored leggings called chausses or hose. It was common for linen drawers or underwear known braies to be worn. Younger men usually wore knee-length tunics while older men opted for the more austere ankle-length. The legs of the hose were not attached in the middle and it was fashionable to have a different color for each leg. The hose was held up by being attached to the braies.
A shorter fitted garment that became known as the doublet was just coming into fashion during this century and was usually worn under the tunic. The style would change and remain popular into the mid-17th century. [2]
Hoods worn various ways were the most popular headwear (think of most depictions of Robin Hood). Some of them had long tails called a liripipe or short capes that covered the shoulders.
Womenโs Fashion
Women generally wore tunics reaching the ankle or the floor over a linen chemise, chainse, or smock. A loose-fitting tunic was known in the French court as a cotte (pronounced coat). The tightly fitted bliaut was also popular and could have lacing in the front, sides, or back. The style was sometimes worn with a long belt or cinture that wrapped twice around the waist and knotted over the abdomen. Some examples end in decorative tassels or metal tags. A mid-century variation was the bliaut gironรฉ, which had a pleated skirt attached at a waist seam. [3] Here is a fantastic โgetting dressedโ video by one of my favorite YouTubers, Prior Attire, showing the different layers worn by a 12th century woman.
Married women covered their hair with a veil although it was common for their long braids to hang out from underneath. The braids were frequently wrapped in ribbon and sometimes extended with purchased hair. Late in the century, the wimple was introduced and was fastened to the head under the veil and covered the neck. [4] The veil was pinned to two strips or bands of fabric that encircled the head. Contrary to popular belief, the veil was not held on by a circlet, although such jewelry was worn over them. With the veil securely pinned to the bands no other attachment method was needed.
A 12th century womanโs bliaut. Photo source. 
The Victorian idea of the bliaut.
The Accolade by Edmund Blair Leighton. Photo source.
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.
Letโs get writing!
Copyright ยฉ 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bliaut. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1100%E2%80%931200_in_European_fashion [2] Boucher, Franรงois: 20,000 Years of Fashion, Harry Abrams, 1966, pp. 164โ172. [3] Snyder, Janet, "From Content to Form: Court Clothing in Mid-Twelfth-Century Northern French Sculpture", in Dรฉsirรฉe Koslin and Janet E. Snyder, eds.: Encountering Medieval Textiles and Dress: Objects, texts, and Images, Macmillan, 2002, ISBN 0-312-29377-1, pp. 85โ101. [4] Payne, Blanche: History of Costume from the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century, pp. 159โ168.
The Writerโs Guide to Historical Fabrics
Posted on January 29, 2021 6 Comments
As a writer, clothing holds so much possibility. What a character is wearing can tell your readers a lot about them from their social status to the care and attention they give to their personal appearance to where in your world they are from. Being accurate is important if you are writing historical fiction, especially if it involves dressing or undressing, such as in a romance novel. However, having a basic understanding of historical clothing can come in handy for the fantasy writer as well to use as inspiration for worldbuilding.
Today I will be covering some basics and over the next few weeks will be taking a close-up look at medieval, Renaissance and 18th and 19th century clothing.
As always, magic is the exception to the rules. Because magic.
Common Fabrics
If you are sticking with real-world fabrics instead of worldbuilding your own, here are some important things to keep in mind. Fabric varied in cost and availability depending on location and historical period. Also, there were varying levels of quality with each type, from fine to course. Some fabrics were expensive during certain time periods only to become cheap and common during others. Also, due to industrial manufacture crowding out hand production, there are types of fabrics that are no longer available.
Wool โ Made from the hair of sheep, wool has been a common and widely used fabric throughout history, prized for its warmth. The earliest woven woolen garments come from Iran and date back to 4,000-3,000 BC. [1] Historically, there have been several grades of wool from finely woven stuff from selectively bred sheep to course fabric produced by the peasant class from their own livestock. The wool trade stretched from Europe to Asia and was widespread and lucrative up until synthetic fibers were introduced in the mid-20th century.
Linen โ Woven from the fibers of the flax plant, linen was an incredibility common fabric especially favored for any layer that touched the skin. The flax plant is native to Europe, North Africa, and the Middle East. Linen is exceptionally breathable, a big benefit in hot and humid climates. It can be woven incredibly fine, almost transparent. It also wicks moisture away from the skin and releases it, which means it doesnโt stick to you like cotton does. Linen was used heavily by all social classes in Europe and the Middle East for centuries and was also popular because it stood up to frequent and vigorous washing.
Cotton โ A fabric made from the fluffy fiber around the seeds of the cotton plant. The plant is native to the Americas, Africa, Egypt, and India. [2] Fragments of cotton fabric have been found in the Indus Valley dating to the fifth millennium B.C. and in Peru dating to 6,000 B.C. Cotton fabric was common in the regions where it is native for most of history. The first Europeans to encounter the fiber were the Greeks led by Alexander the Great. Cotton was slowly introduced to Europe, beginning as a luxurious and expensive commodity. Over the centuries, it became cheaper and more common until becoming the unexpensive ordinary fabric we know today.
Silk โ Made from the fibers of the silkwormโs cocoon, silk has always enjoyed a spot as a valued and expensive fabric. The Chinese developed the method of collecting the fibers and weaving them into fabric, a secret they closely guarded for centuries. The earliest example of silk fabric dates to 3,630 B.C. and was found in Qingtaicun near Xingyang, Henan. [3] India also has a long history of silk production and the country is the largest consumer of silk today. [4] The Roman Empire had a thriving silk trade and beginning in the 12th century, Italy became the primary supplier of silk to all of Europe. [5]
Linsey-Woolsey โ A fabric made by combining linen and wool fibers. Although it has existed from ancient times, the fabric was most common in 18th century colonial America due to a scarcity of wool. [6]
Clothing and Social Class
Throughout history, it has been common to be able to tell a personโs social standing and wealth by their clothing. The two biggest indicators are the cost of the fabric and whether the style follows the latest fashion trends. However, there have also been laws limiting peopleโs ability to wear certain styles, colors, or materials. For example, ermine became associated with royalty and several countries throughout the centuries passed laws forbidding anyone not of the royal family to wear it.
Sumptuary laws have been enacted throughout history in various parts of the world such as ancient Greece and Rome, Japan under the shoguns, China, and Europe during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. They laid out rules on what a person could or could not wear based on their social status, including fabric, embroidery, and colors. Some of them could be incredibly picky, dictating the size of sleeves or whether you could wear lace. Most of these laws could be sidestepped by paying a fee although they were often widely ignored.
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.
Letโs get writing!
Copyright ยฉ 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
[1] Smith, Barbara; Kennedy, Gerald; Aseltine, Mark (1997). Beginning Shepherd's Manual, Second Edition. Ames, IA: Iowa State University Press. ISBN 0-8138-2799-X. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wool#cite_ref-19 [2] The Biology of Gossypium hirsutum L. and Gossypium barbadense L. (cotton). ogtr.gov.au. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotton#cite_ref-1 [3] Vainker, Shelagh (2004). Chinese Silk: A Cultural History. Rutgers University Press. pp. 20, 17. ISBN 978-0813534466. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silk#cite_ref-silkculture_12-1 [4] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silk#India [5] "Italy โ Calabria, Catanzaro". Office of Tourism. Archived from the original on 21 August 2015. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silk#cite_ref-35 [6] Baumgarten, Linda: What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America, Yale University Press, 2002. ISBN 0-300-09580-5, page 96. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linsey-woolsey#cite_ref-B96_2-1
The Writerโs Guide to Horse Myths: Part 3
Posted on January 22, 2021 45 Comments
This is my third and final installment on misinformation about horses. After this, I will be moving on to historical clothing.
As always, magic is the exception to the rules. Because magic.
Training for Battle
Horses are naturally flighty, easily startled animals. After all, in the wild, they are in almost constant danger from predators. A horseโs natural reaction to any scary situation is to spook and run away. When humans started using horses in battle, they had to train this flight reaction out of them. Itโs similar to a human who trains themselves not to freeze in a dangerous situation through martial arts or other combat instruction. A critical part of normal training for a horse is to trust the rider and every horse must be desensitized to one extent or another. For some, itโs learning to not be afraid of the hose; for others, like police horses, itโs learning not to shy at gunshots, explosions or screaming people. Here is an interesting video about training police horses.
Horse Emotions
Horses experience a wide variety of emotions from joy to trauma to grief. They bond with horses, people, and other animals. They will put themselves in danger to save the ones they love.
A friend of mine told me a story of having to put a horse down. They led him from the corral to the barn and as my friend was walking back afterward, passed the horse in the next pen. The horse looked at him, look toward the barn and nickered. My friend said, โIโm sorry. Heโs gone.โ The horse let out a loud whinny and charged for the gate, calling for his friend. Then he turned and walked back slowly, his head held low.
Becoming a Good Rider
Becoming a competent rider takes time and training. Most people cannot mount a horse for the first time and be good riders. Yes, you can be told the basics of steering and getting the horse to move in a few minutes and probably do well enough at slow speeds but you are probably going to be in trouble trying to do anything more advanced like jumping or mounted combat. Another detail to keep in mind is that riding uses muscles that normally donโt get a lot of exercise so even if an amateur rider is fit, they are probably going to be in a world of hurt after a few hours.
Writerโs Tip: I would love to see a scene in a book showing the struggles of a first-time rider.
Breaking a Horse
Breaking a horse to saddle also takes time. If the horse has had little to no contact with humans it will take weeks to months before the trainer can even touch the horse. Once the horse is used to being touched and groomed, then they must become accustomed to the tack being put on them then weight put in the saddle. Generally, itโs not recommended to ride horses before the age of 2-4 because their skeletal and muscular structures are still maturing and too much weight could hurt them.
There are people who claim to be able to break a horse to saddle in a day or a week but usually most of their methods are abusive and involve terrorizing the horse into compliance. These methods are sometimes called rough breaking.
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.
Letโs get writing!
Copyright ยฉ 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
The Writerโs Guide to Horse Myths: Part 2
Posted on January 15, 2021 1 Comment
Today we are busting more horse myths. This is misinformation I see repeated by well-meaning authors who unfortunately donโt know they are spreading untruths.
As always, magic is the exception to the rules. Because magic.
Sleeping Standing Up
A horse can enter certain phases such as light sleep while standing but to go into deep sleep and REM (rapid eye movement) the horse must lie down. If the horse is standing when it enters these phases of sleep it would probably fall over due to the muscle relaxation. An adult horse needs a minimum of thirty minutes of deep and REM sleep to avoid sleep deprivation. [1] Foals spend a lot more time napping, up to half the day when they are less than three months old. [2] Usually horses will sleep only when they feel safe and often with one of their herd mates acting as a lookout.
Neglecting Grooming
Unfortunately, I have read several books where the protagonist rides all day, makes camp at night, and completely ignores her horse except to maybe take the saddle off. Grooming is important to a horseโs health because it removes dirt and sweat from its coat and gives the rider the opportunity to check for any injuries. One of the most important grooming tasks is cleaning the hooves. The sole of a horseโs foot has two grooves. Rocks and other debris can get caught in them and if not removed can cause the horse to go lame. Cleaning the hooves is also a good time to make sure the horseshoes are not coming loose.
Not Warming Up or Cooling Down
Just like it is important for you to warm up and cool down as part of a workout, it is critical for horses. When starting a ride, the horse should be walked or slowly trotted until its muscles warm up before attempting faster paces. The same should be done at the end of a ride to prevent the muscles from cramping up. Yet I see several books, shows and movies with riders mounting and galloping off or galloping up and immediately hitching their horse.
Not Tying Up
Speaking of hitching or tying up your horse, Iโm amazed how many times Iโve seen the hero dismount and walk away, leaving his horse loose. Itโs not like parking a car because your car wonโt wander off. If you want your horse to be there when you get back itโs important to either hitch or hobble them. Hobbling involves connecting the horseโs front legs with a short piece of rope or leather. The horse can take small steps comfortably but canโt go very far.
Riding Without a Saddle
In a pinch, you can ride without a saddle but it does have some drawbacks. First, itโs not very comfortable. You are straddling the horseโs spine with the bony withers right in front of you. Second, without stirrups to help you stay in place you must use a lot more leg which becomes tiring after a while and starts to chafe.
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list here.
Letโs get writing!
Copyright ยฉ 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
[1] https://ker.com/equinews/sleep-requirements-horses/ [2] https://www.thesprucepets.com/learn-how-all-horses-sleep-1887328
The Writerโs Guide to Horse Myths: Part 1
Posted on January 8, 2021 4 Comments
Today we are busting some of the most common horse myths that are repeated over and over in books, tv shows, and movies.
As always, magic is the exception to the rules. Because magic.
Noises
It seems that almost every movie or tv show I watch that has horses in it, the sound artist has a bizarre obsession with adding horse noises. Horses in these productions are constantly whinnying, whickering, screaming, and snorting. Most of the time they will add these sounds and the horseโs mouth wonโt even be moving!
If you spend any time around horses you will quickly noticed that they are not noisy animals. In fact, they make few sounds at all and not with the level of frequency that movies and tv depict. The reason for this is because they are prey animals.
Here are some of the noises a horse will make:
Whinny โ A loud noise that is usually used to communicate across distances. It is also common for horses to whinny when they know food is coming.
Nicker โ A soft low-pitched sound that is usually a sign of affection.
Snort โ Self-explanatory. Horses will snort when they see something that scares them.
Squeal โ Usually a sound of frustration, like when another horse gets too close.
Blowing โ When a horse blows out of its mouth or nose.
Screaming
Yes, I am covering horse screaming separately. There are so many books I have read that talk about horses screaming. While there are equestrians who will claim that horses donโt actually scream, I think thatโs due to how rarely it happens. Horses will suffer horrific injuries and pain without a sound because noises of suffering draw in predators. However, we have soldierโs writings from World War I, the last major conflict to use horses, describing animals with horrific injuries screaming in pain such as this account by Lieutenant Dennis Wheatley. The British Army lost half a million horses in the war.
Cutting the Traces
I have read so many books in which a character has been riding in a carriage, needs to make a quick getaway, and cuts the traces of one of the carriage horses to ride off. It makes me cringe every time and makes it painfully obvious that the writer knows little about horse harness.
Letโs start with the basics. The traces, also known as tugs, are what connect the horse to the vehicle or load it is pulling. For light loads such as a cart the traces extend from a breastband. For heavier loads, a collar is used and the traces are attached to two metal pieces known as hams that are buckled over the collar. Most traces are between 3-5 inches wide (7.6-12.7 cms) and between ยผ to ยฝ inch (0.64-1.27 cms) thick.
There are two main ways the traces are connected to the vehicle. One way is to have slit or hole in the end of the traces that is slipped over a hook. The second is to have a length of chain at the end of the traces that is attached with a snap. There are also additional straps that connect the breech strap, which runs around the horseโs rump, to the vehicle, preventing it from bumping into the horse if it stops suddenly.
It would be hard and time-consuming to cut through the traces with something like a knife. Itโs possible to use a sword as long as the shafts of a cart arenโt in the way. However, it makes no sense to cut through two traces when you can simply unhook them and unbuckle the breech straps.
Girths
Just like cutting traces, cutting girths doesnโt make a lot of sense either. Most girths are roughly 4 inches (10 cms) wide and up to 1 inch thick (2.5 cms) due to the padding. Obviously, this would take a while to cut through. It would be a lot easier and faster to simply unbuckle it. Western cinches are usually wider but not as thick but the same issues still apply. Again, it would be easier to undo the cinch strap.
Another misconception I see is that a girth can be sabotaged by partially cutting it. The first problem is that most girths are heavily reinforced and it would take significant damage for it to fail under stress. Another problem is that most riders or grooms saddling a horse are checking every piece for damage or weakened leather.
In Brandon Sandersonโs โThe Way of Kings,โ a character bunches up a girth and tucks it in his pocket. Due to the size, it is very unlikely this could be possible. It would however be plausible if it was a cinch strap, the strap that connects the cinch to the saddle, since it is a thinner strap than the cinch itself.
I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions by using the Contact Me form on my website or writing a comment. I post every Friday and would be grateful if you would share my content.
If you want my blog delivered straight to your inbox every month along with exclusive content and giveaways please sign up for my email list.
Letโs get writing!
Copyright ยฉ 2021 Rebecca Shedd. All rights reserved.
Rebecca Shedd - Author 